Sunday, September 16, 2012

Zona Cafeteria - Colombia's Coffee Regions

This morning started very early (3:45am!) with a 6am flight to Aremenia in the coffee plantation region. It was definitely not a morning to buy a lottery ticket. The flight had just begun when the flight attendant set a cup of ice water on my tray, and it slid forward drenching me! Sitting with soaked pants for an hour definitely woke me up. We had to change planes in Bogota, and unless you've been through the Bogota airport you won't understand how this could happen. Somehow 5 of us(not just me!) wound up on the wrong transfer bus headed to the opposite end of this huge airport. By the time we'd realized the mistake our flight had taken off with our luggage aboard. What chaos ensued, but we did manage to get on a flight 2 hours later and we were on our way to Juan Valdez country!.

Looking out the plane's window as we landed in Armenia, all I could see for miles and miles was lush green hills covered with banana and plantain trees and dark green coffee plants clinging to velvet green hillsides. Our driver Miguel with Living Tours, a company he founded after returning from 8 years in NYC, was an excellent guide and began to fill me in on the history of Zona Cafeteria or the Coffee Triangle (Armenia is one of three regions producing what is internationally known as the best coffee in the world. Juan Valdez commericals began in 1959 and have become the symbol of Colombian coffee..)

In just a short while we had arrived at Hotel Combia for a site inspection and delicious lunch. Located in the middle of a large coffee plantation , it was decorated in bright colors in the Colombian style.

Lunch was another leisurely affair (which I definitely enjoyed after my chaotic morning) and Grandma's Cazuela(bean soup) was the best soup I've ever tasted! 



The view from the 2nd story open-air restaurant overlooked the swimming pool and surrounding countryside. 

 
What a peaceful paradise! Would love to come back and stay a week.


 Next stop was the San Alberto Coffee Plantation, located high on a hill near the small town of Buena Vista (perfect name!) 

First item on the agenda was a cup of their coffee (I was definitely awake by now!!) while enjoying the view. 


Then Francina, our instructor for the afternoon began our in-depth immersion into the process of producing their very special coffee beans. We began with a climb up the hillside – not for the faint of heart as some of the inclines seemed like 45 degrees.


 Starting with the 'almond' or seed in the coffee bean pod we learned the very careful process that takes years to develop.



 
Once we had passed our exam on the first course, we moved on to the semi-annual harvesting (all done by hand with local workers), the careful selection of 'only the best beans' (I could hear Juan Valdez!), the fermentation and, finally, the special roasting process.

Taking his role very seriously,Francina took us to a small, enclosed room for the Final Exam! I was already nervous as we donned special aprons and took our places at separate exam sites --to prevent cheating, I assumed. First, we had to judge the initial fragrance of the ground beans, next came an identification of the aroma once the grounds were steeped for exactly 4 minutes in hot but not boiling water and finally the tasting. We were now certified coffee experts!

More tomorrow about this region and the Hacienda Bambusa where I am staying, but now Iwas ready for dinner and a good night's sleep and all that coffee wasn't going to stop me!

More from Zona Cafeteria tomorrow.
Linda

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