Golden Treasures and the Salt Cathedral

Today was a wonderful finale to my first and definitely not my last trip to Colombia.  All week I have been having great time seeing the sites and experiencing the culture and friendly people that visitors to Colombia will enjoy.

This morning I toured with a couple from Toronto that had attended Travel Mart Latin America and were with me in the Coffee Triangle.  Our guide Fernando was excellent and began the morning with a visit to the #1 site in Bogota -- the Museo del Oro.  Not only does Michelin give the museum 3* but also says, "It is simply the most impressive museum of its type in the world."  And I agree!

Containing over 34,000 pieces of pre-Colombian artifacts, the collection could stand on its merits simply with numbers alone, but the visitor comes away with an entirely different understanding of the value of these treasures.  Sadly,  the early Spanish explorers decimated many cultures searching for "El Dorado."    They had heard rumors that cultures such as the Muisca near current day Bogota threw their gold and jewels into nearby Lake Guatavita as gifts to their gods.

Through numerous well-planned exhibits and our guide's explanations, I came to realize the true value of these gold treasures lay not in their monetary value, but in their spiritual significance to the ancient people who created these incredible treasures. Our visit ended with our entering a darkened room.  Slowly the lights came up, revealing a circular room completely covered with gold artifacts.  As we spent the last moments of our visit here, we began to realize the true worth of these treasures was the spiritual value to the ancient people. We left with this realization etched in our minds, hopefully, forever.

Leaving the hustle and bustle of Bogota behind, we drove north through the countryside to the town of Zipaquira, the center of Colombia's salt mining industry.  Our goal was to visit its world-famous Catedral de Sal, an incredible feat of engineering that turned the former salt mine into an amazing underground salt cathedral covering over 91,000 ft.  By the time we had seen the cathedral, we had walked 2 kms.

As our eyes become accustomed to the dimly-lit mine, we begin our walk through the 14 small chapels representing the various Stations of the Cross.  I have walked the Via Dolorosa in Jerusalem on 2 separate trips, but there was virtually no comparison between the 2 sites other than the title of each station.

Coming back to the surface we were suddenly aware of hunger pangs and were glad when Fernando suggested lunch in a nearby village.  Lunch was traditional Colombian food and delicious.

I couldn't resist a photo of the typical colorful local cafe.





Today I got the delightful message that my driver would be picking me up at 4am in the morning for my 7:45am flight.  Bogota airport requires a 3-hour check in, and, after several traumatic instances earlier this week, I am definitely willing to comply.  I fly nonstop to Houston and then on to Austin.
So, after 8 days in this wonderful country, I am bidding Colombia  a fond "Adios," but hope to return soon!  I had always heard Colombia was a special destination but had not realized the beauty and diversity of the land, the bountiful natural resources, the fascinating history and rich colonial architecture, delicious cuisines, and the welcoming people.  I now truly appreciate the tourism slogan --The Only Risk is Wanting to Stay!

Bogota -- High in the Andes

Today I said good by to the Coffee Triangle--an area I had fallen in love with and boarded an Avianca flight for my 3^rd trip to the Bogota airport. Having had major challenges the first 2 times at this airport, I was a bit apprehensive, but all went off without a hitch and my guide was waiting for me holding a sign with my name on it. There's no better feeling than arriving in a new destination and seeing someone waiting for you!

I had now traversed from the port city of Cartagena to the Coffee Triangle in the Central Andes to my final destination – Bogota. Colombia's largest city with a population of 8 million, it sprawls along the eastern section of the Andes at almost 9,000ft. It is the 3^rd highest capital city in the world behind La Paz, Bolivia and Quito, Ecuador. Founded in 1538, it was a relatively small city until the 1950's when growth began at an incredible pace. It's location on the slopes of the Andes provides a beautiful setting.

Due to some much too complicated issues to explain in a blog, my city tour didn't begin until almost 5pm. Not too happy about the delay, I soon changed my attitude as we began our exploration of the city with a gondola ride up Cerro de Monserrate. 

 The Santuario de Monserrate is visible from just about every corner of the city, as it sits atop the highest point at 10,340ft on the eastern ridge of the Andes. Blindingly white in the glare of a sunny day it provides breathtaking views from the top. I'm afraid my photos just couldn't quite capture the incredible beauty of the city below me as the sun set and lights began to spread across the valley.

By now the temperature was dropping and it was time to take the gondola down to the city. 

What a view!

Our next stop was the Museo Donacion Botero located in the Candelaria, Bogota's colonial city filled with churches, palaces, museums, cultural centers and popular restaurants. It's really the heart and soul of the city.

Colombia's most well-known artist, Fernando Botero is best known for his paintings of rotund people and animals.

I wasn't familiar with his work but found the museum and his portrayal of the subjects fascinating. 

We only had a short time in the museum before it closed, but I definitely plan to learn more about his works which include serious subjects such as his highly stylized portrayal of notorious drug lord Pablo Escobar, being gunned down by government troops. It is the Bird of Peace sculpture, however, in Medellin that really brings the Colombian situation up close. In 1995 a bomb was placed at the feet of this sculpture, and 23 people were killed. Instead of replacing the sculpture, he elected to create an identical statue and place it alongside the destroyed one to show the futility of the action.

Returning to my hotel, I walked down the block and had a delicious meal of spaghetti and meatballs at a neighborhood Italian restaurant. Time for a change from all the Colombian specialties.

Tomorrow is my last day in this wonderful country and the agenda promises to be a full one so had best say buenos noches!.

Linda

Salento and the Valle de Cocoro

I left you yesterday without a word about the lovely Hacienda Bambusa where I am spending 2 nights in the Zona Cafeteria (Coffee Triangle). Built of guadua, a very sturdy bamboo native to this region, and adobe, it is constructed in the traditional Spanish style around an open courtyard with large outward-facing balconies. I awakened this morning to a symphony of the calls of exotic birds. Eating breakfast on the patio, I saw 3 bright green birds that looked like a tropical version of our parakeets.

Unfortunately, I didn't have time to explore the 250+ acres actively cultivated with fields of banana, plantain, oranges, coffee, yucca and herds of white Brahman cattle or to relax by the inviting pool.

Instead Miguel arrive at 9am, and we headed back through Armenia to the charming town of Salento. This traditional settlement dates back to 1850 and is known for its brightly painted balconies. 

Originally, there was a serious reason behind these colors. During the Thousand Day War between the Liberal and Conservative factions (some things never change, eh?), the Liberals painted their balconies blue while the Conservatives had red balconies, The neutral factions left theirs plain. When the warring party arrived in Salento, those loyal to the invading forces were spared while the opponents' homes were burned.

Today Salento is the second- most visited site in Colombia behind Cartagena Our fun morning began at Jesus Martin's Coffee shop. I learned why their coffee was the best in town, but the most intriguing part was watching him decorate my cappuccino. He used a pointed stylus to design the foam on top. What an artist!

With renewed energy, we strolled down the colorful streets, stopping frequently for photos. In a relatively short period of time, I did quite a bit of shopping in some lovely boutiques with products made locally by the store owners. I could easily have spent the day in Salento, but we had many more activities ahead.

Lunchtime was fast approaching, and Miguel already had a good plan in mind. We were headed out of Salento on the road to Valle de Cocoro but first with a stop at Restaurante Mirador. 

Again, lunch provided an incredible view – this time it was the Cocoro Valley below. I think my rainbow trout had to have been swimming in the Rio Quindio as the fish was delicious.

Instead of heading on to Valle de Cocoro, we returned to Salento to get in a Jeep Willis for a wild ride along country roads to the Valle. Apparently this is a typical means of transportation to the site and standing in the open back watching the landscape fly by was definitely exciting. Framed by sharp peaks with valleys etched by the crystal-clear waters of the Rio Quindio, the Valle de Cocoro is famous for its gigantic towering Wax Palms – Colombia's majestic national tree. Endemic to the Andean highlands, it grows on the well-drained mountainous terrain, at altitudes above 3,000 ft. and is the tallest palm species on earth, reaching up to 200 ft in height and can live up to 120 years.

Today must have been the day to try alternative forms of transportation. As we got further into the region, we left our jeep and switched to horses. Yes, I relented on my previous vow never to mount a horse again and climbed aboard 'Gabie.' We rode alongside the river through some of the most beautiful landscape I'd ever seen, up and down rocky paths and across several streams(honest, that's me crossing a rapidly-flowing stream --and, believer it or not, I loved every minute.)

Returning the horses, we still had one more item on the agenda--to plant a small 5-year old wax palm. After the palm was lovingly placed in the soil, I joined this devoted nurseryman in a quaint ceremony naming it the “Linda” palm and uniting the US and Colombia in efforts to preserve endangered species.

Sadly, my very short visit to this beautiful region is drawing to a close as I fly to Bogota tomorrow.

Linda

Zona Cafeteria - Colombia's Coffee Regions

This morning started very early (3:45am!) with a 6am flight to Aremenia in the coffee plantation region. It was definitely not a morning to buy a lottery ticket. The flight had just begun when the flight attendant set a cup of ice water on my tray, and it slid forward drenching me! Sitting with soaked pants for an hour definitely woke me up. We had to change planes in Bogota, and unless you've been through the Bogota airport you won't understand how this could happen. Somehow 5 of us(not just me!) wound up on the wrong transfer bus headed to the opposite end of this huge airport. By the time we'd realized the mistake our flight had taken off with our luggage aboard. What chaos ensued, but we did manage to get on a flight 2 hours later and we were on our way to Juan Valdez country!.

Looking out the plane's window as we landed in Armenia, all I could see for miles and miles was lush green hills covered with banana and plantain trees and dark green coffee plants clinging to velvet green hillsides. Our driver Miguel with Living Tours, a company he founded after returning from 8 years in NYC, was an excellent guide and began to fill me in on the history of Zona Cafeteria or the Coffee Triangle (Armenia is one of three regions producing what is internationally known as the best coffee in the world. Juan Valdez commericals began in 1959 and have become the symbol of Colombian coffee..)

In just a short while we had arrived at Hotel Combia for a site inspection and delicious lunch. Located in the middle of a large coffee plantation , it was decorated in bright colors in the Colombian style.

Lunch was another leisurely affair (which I definitely enjoyed after my chaotic morning) and Grandma's Cazuela(bean soup) was the best soup I've ever tasted! 

The view from the 2^nd story open-air restaurant overlooked the swimming pool and surrounding countryside. 

 

What a peaceful paradise! Would love to come back and stay a week.

 Next stop was the San Alberto Coffee Plantation, located high on a hill near the small town of Buena Vista (perfect name!) 

First item on the agenda was a cup of their coffee (I was definitely awake by now!!) while enjoying the view. 

Then Francina, our instructor for the afternoon began our in-depth immersion into the process of producing their very special coffee beans. We began with a climb up the hillside – not for the faint of heart as some of the inclines seemed like 45 degrees.

 Starting with the 'almond' or seed in the coffee bean pod we learned the very careful process that takes years to develop.

 

Once we had passed our exam on the first course, we moved on to the semi-annual harvesting (all done by hand with local workers), the careful selection of 'only the best beans' (I could hear Juan Valdez!), the fermentation and, finally, the special roasting process.

Taking his role very seriously,Francina took us to a small, enclosed room for the Final Exam! I was already nervous as we donned special aprons and took our places at separate exam sites --to prevent cheating, I assumed. First, we had to judge the initial fragrance of the ground beans, next came an identification of the aroma once the grounds were steeped for exactly 4 minutes in hot but not boiling water and finally the tasting. We were now certified coffee experts!

More tomorrow about this region and the Hacienda Bambusa where I am staying, but now Iwas ready for dinner and a good night's sleep and all that coffee wasn't going to stop me!

More from Zona Cafeteria tomorrow.

Linda

Travel Mart Latin America - 2012

Last night was a fun intro to Travel Mart Latin America 2012. Shortly after our leisurely lunch, we were picked up for a transfer out of the Old City to a welcome reception hosted by Metropolitan Touring, a Virtuoso on-site for South America. Not only were we treated to tasty snacks and drinks but a delightful program beginning with a journalist who heads a foundation for young, aspiring journalist in honor of Nobel laureate Gabriel Garcia Marquez who lived in Cartagena briefly as a young journalist who wrote some memorable works such as Love in the Time of Cholera. We were all given copies of his writings.

Just as this interesting speaker finished the room exploded with brightly dressed Colombian dancers and wild Caribbean music. The costumes were beautiful and the dancers enthralled us. We were really getting into the rhythm of the music when Rachel and I were pulled out onto the dance floor. Maybe we weren't quite as good as the Colombian dancers, but we were having just as much fun!

Fortunately, our meetings didn't begin until 10am the next morning, so we had a good night's sleep. TMLA is very different from Virtuoso Travel Week that we had just attended in Vegas last month. We chose from a list of travel suppliers attending the meeting with whom we wanted an appointment, and the time slots were 20 minutes – much better than the '4-minute speed dating' sessions in Vegas! Another nice treat were the various snack tables set up throughout the hall and the wonderful Colombian coffee! It's so good I didn't even want to add cream which is amazing for me!

The appointments were excellent, and I've learned so much already. I've even found a company that offers flights and overnight stays in Antarctica. Now I can finally visit that last continent and not have to fight sea sickness through the Drake Passage to get there!

Tonight we had no scheduled activities so we decided to explore the Old City at night and had dinner at a fabulous Colombian restaurant. A friend I'd met on my Vietnam fam several years ago was also at the meeting and she joined us. Not only is she a lot of fun but she is also fluent in Spanish. It was wonderful to sit back and let her take care of all our dialog with the waiters!

Strolling back through the Old City to our hotel was like being on a movie set. The small plazas, sidewalk cafes, quaintly-lit streets with occasional carriages passing by were almost surreal. We had been told and found it true that the streets in this area are perfectly safe, and we had no qualms about strolling down them. Anyone coming to Cartagena MUST stay in the Old City.

Tomorrow is our last day in Cartagena. Rachel will be heading back to Austin to relieve Stephen who has been babysitting while I am off to explore the coffee regions and enjoy more Colombian coffee.

Linda

Colombia - The Only Risk is Wanting to Stay!

Instead of my usual forays westward to Asia and the South Pacific or eastward to Europe and Africa, I'm on a flight southbound to a totally new destination—Colombia. Located on the northwestern coast of South America, it has had an image of drug lords, violence and corruption rather than a destination with much natural beauty, fascinating history and gracious people.

Although our primary purpose is to attend Travel Mart Latin America (a major trade show bringing together tourism suppliers from Latin America with buyers from all over the world), Rachel and I want to experience first-hand what many consider to be the up-and-coming destinations in South America.

As my flight continues on from Houston, I finally have had time to read about Colombia.  It is the 3^rd largest country in Latin America after Brazil and Mexico and is the oldest democracy in South America despite its history of internal conflicts. Following WWII, much of the country was riddled with violence and drug wars.

In 1999, however, the US began supporting the Colombian government in its war against drugs,and a few years later a program called the Democratic and Security Policy (DSP) was instituted by President Uribe to make Colombia a safe place. Great progress has been made in the last decade, and, with the help of a strong tourism initiative, tourists are returning to Colombia. From its ancient civilizations rich with gold that were exploited by the Spaniards to bloody civil wars and ruthless drug lords, this land of emeralds and coffee beans is emerging in the 21^st century with renewed hope and greater security.

We'll be landing in Cartagena shortly where we'll be attending the trade show for the next 4 days. Rachel will be flying home then, but I'll be heading west to the coffee regions near Armenia in the Andean highlands for 2 days and then on to Bogota located higher up in the Andes. Depending on internet access, I hope to share my adventures with you in this new and exciting destination.

More from Cartagena soon.

Linda