Hue -- Ancient Dynasties and Modern Wars

We were a pretty bedraggled group when we arrived late into Hue, Vietnam's former imperial capital and scene of  the 1968 Tet Offensive.  The welcome awaiting us at La Residence Hotel & Spa as well as the elegance and colonial charm of this former French building revived us. After a delicious room service dinner compliments of Chris and Asia Transpacific Journeys, I fell asleep.

The next morning I awoke to a sunny view of the Perfume River from my balcony. This view and a hearty breakfast -- what more could I ask?

Our explorations of Hue began witha tour of the Imperial Citadel.  I'm reading The Cat from Hue,an excellent book,  written by a CBS Vietam War correspondent. Beginning early in 1968 with the Tet Offensive he describes in vivid detail how the Viet Cong held out in this fortified ancient citadel against American forces for nearly 2 months with over 10,000 deaths. Many priceless historical relics were destroyed and further damage was inflicted by typhoons and flooding.  Hue was virtually neglected until tourism returned to Vietnam in the 1990's.  Fashioned after Beijing's Imperial City, this huge structure covers over 1200 acres and is surrounded by a moat.  We passed through several enclosures until reaching the Forbidden Purple City reserved solely for the royal family.  Used as a bunker by the Viet Cong it was almost totally destroyed but is being restored. Holes made by mortar shells were still obvious.

 Lunch at the lovely Ana Mandara Resort was a real treat.  This gorgeous resort is  located on a South China Sea Beach about 30 min. SW of Hue.  I couldn't believe a lovely 1 bedroom suite was only $350/nt!  Vietnam is definitely a bargain.

Refreshed by lunch we were ready for the afternoon's itinerary.  Unlike other Vietnamese dynasties, the Nguyens of Hue did not bury their family members in their native villages but instead built imperial tombs on the hillsides along either side of the Perfume River west and south of Hue.  We visited the Tu Doc and Khai Dinh tombs.  The photo on the left shows the giant dragon staircase leading to the first courtyard of the Khai Dinh tomb.

Next stop was the Thien Mu Pagoda overlooking the Perfume River.  What most American's remember, however, is that in 1963, a monk from this temple travelled to Saigon and burnt himself to death in protest of President Diem's repression of Budhists in South Vietnam.  A photo of the monk alight in flames as well as the car he drove to Saigon are on display here.

As the sun was setting we climbed aboard a colorful boat and cruiseed down the now-familiar Perfume River back to Hue.  Disembarking at a very colorful and busy local market, we were greeted with many unusual sightts and scents  as passed through it on our way back to the hotel. Tomorrow we're on the road again, this time south to the town of Hoi An with some interesting stops along the way.

   More from Central Vietnam tomorrow...
Linda