Easter Island - Three Wonderful Days!

Our last day of exploration on Easter Island -- how did the time fly by so quickly!  I still have to pinch myself to believe I'm really on the most remote inhabited island on earth!

It's located 2500 miles from any inhabited land mass of more than 100 people.  Pitcairn Island (1289 miles to the west with less than 100 residents) is the closest neightbor! You can get some perspective of its location on the map to the right.  Easter Island is in the lower right-hand corner of the Polynesian triangle.

Most of  the moai we had seen the 2 previous days had been restored and placed in their original positions.  At Ahu Aka Hanga the statutes still lay where they had fallen when either pulled down by an opposing clan or knocked over by the tsunami in the 1960's.. 

We climbed around to the backside which faces the ocean and peered through a small crack in the lava rock exposing human bone fragments buried here centuries earlier.

Among Easter Island's most breathtaking sites is the moai-studded slopes of Rano Raraku, a volcano which provided the stone for the island's famous moai.

This was the quarry where the Rapa Nui carvers chiseled their huge statues and eventually freed them from the quarry to be transported across the island.  We could see many of these still standing, never having been totally detached from their quarry origins. Only about a quarter of the statues were installed, while nearly half remained in the quarry and the rest sit elsewhere, probably on their way to final locations.

Climbing  up  the side of the volcano, we had a beautiful view of the crater's fresh-water lake whose edges were lined with totora reeds.

Herds of wild horses roamed freely in the area.

After so much climbing I was ready for a rest under a nice shade tree.  Actually, Easter Island has only remnants remaining of the original lush tropical island.  Apparently, the original inhabitants focused most of their energy on the tremendous tasks of building the moai rather than preserving their native environment. Much of the natural resources were consumed and not replaced. Hmmm, sound familiar?

Our guide saved the "wow" factor  of the morning until just before lunch.

A short drive from the quarry is the island's most stunning and photographed asset -- Ahu Tongariki.  This is the island's largest platform (base upon which the moai sit) with its 15 moai. This impressive row shows the variety of pukao (top knots.)

Next on the agenda was definitely lunch.  Knowing we would venture quite a distance  from the hotel today, they had prepared a box lunch and we were ready to enjoy our picnic. 

Located on the northeastern shores of Rapa Nui, Playa Anakena is the islands only broad sandy beach and , with its tall palms and turquoise waters, is almost a caricature of a South Pacific paradise. According to Rapa Nui oral tradition, this was the site that chief Hotu Motu'a landed with the first Polynesian settlers

Lunch was fun although the skies suddenly turned dark and rain looked imminent, but the Sun god continued to watch over us and soon  sunny skies reappeared.  After eating we walked over to another platform containing moai with a variety of  pukao and even some tattoos on the back sides. Two of the moai  were badly damaged, but the remainder were in good condition.

Climbing back into our van we bounced (quite literally) over some roads that make Costa Rica's feel like expressways!  But the drive was worth the destination -- Ahu Te Pito Kura with one of the largest remaining platforms but no moai remained.  What was there was a rock sacred to the Rapa Nui people.  By rubbing it legend says you will be empowered with special spirits.  I tried but am still waiting to feel empowered!

Beautiful wild horses were on the land we walked back through and several had young colts.  Couldn't resist a photo. 

Apparently, the population of these horses is getting out of control and there are estimated to be more than 4500 on this small island.


Tomorrow my wonderful odyssey through Peru and Easter Island comes to a close.  It's been a fabulous experience,  incredibly good weather, great guides, lovely hotels, delicious food, pleasant traveling companions and the most fascination destinations in the world.  What more could I ask -- except to return one day!

A big thank you to Latour and LAN Airlines for providing me with this opportunity.
Linda

Easter Island - Mystery of the Moai

Someone in our group must have made a very substantial sacrifice to the Sun god when we landed on Easter Island as our beautiful weather is still holding. The high in the afternoon was probably low 70's and very pleasant.

Our guide on Easter Island is a delightful young man who was born and raised in Rapa Nui (the local name for Easter Island). Ata's parents were archeologists in Chile and came to Rapa Nui on a temporary assignment and never left! Not only is Ata very knowledgeable about the island but he is also a very cute young man!

Our first stop was at Ana Kai Tangata (Ana means cave) which is a lava  tube connecting the crater we saw yesterday. 

After a steep climb down to the coastal cavern, we had a breathtaking view of waves breaking at the entrance.  Featured inside the cavern were rock art paintings.  Legend has it that cannibalism may have been practiced here, but there is no actual proof.

Climbing down the side of the cliff on some very steep steps, we entered a cave and were rewarded with this incredible view as the waves crashed a short distance in front of the entrance. This was actually part of a lava tube created when one of the island's volcanoes erupted many years earlier.

From here Ata took us back to Rano Kau, the water-filled crater we had viewed yesterday from a different side

The panorama view from the top is probably the island's most striking natural sight

As we hiked back down the side we passed Orongo, a ceremonial village which had been a complex of 53 houses linked to the island's Birdman sect. This sect had replaced the original culture of ancestor worship.

Conflict between various clans on the island began the decline of the irriginal cultures. One faction would topple the other's moai during the fighting and the other would retaliate.. They finally disappeared with the slave raids in the 1860's and the arrival of Christian missionaries.

By now pangs of hunger were descending upon the group and we drove back to our hotel for another delicious lunch and Chilean Savignon Blanc wine.  True to South American traditions lunch is not a 'fast food' affair.  Several hours later we hit the road again. 

One quick photo, however, before we departed for our afternoon adventures.

Note the solar and wind-powered lights in this photo. These line the perimeter of the resort.

Back to our exploration of the moai on Easter Island. 

The structures initially had 'top knots' representing the way the male inhabitants tied their hair on top of their heads  This red stone came from the Puna Pao quarry.  The front of the structures were carved at the quarry leaving only a 'keel' to attach to the quarry. 

Slowly the moai were raised to a standing position using rock ramps and were then moved as far as 22 km by rolling them on eucalyptis logs.

With our knowledge of the moai increasing, we headed for our next 'wow' siting.

Arriving at the Ahu Akivi site we saw 7 standing moai which were one of the few inland ahu(stone platforms) facing the sea.  Most face inland 

These had been restored to their standing positions in 1960.  Virtually any standing moai have been restored as time, conflict and, especially, tsunami have knocked them down.

Our last item on today's agenda was another lava tube created from the Rano Kau crater we had seen yesterday and again this morning.  Climbing through the tube was optional and halfway through I was beginning to think I had made a mistake.  Climbing through a pitch dark cavern with low ceilings and rocky flooring with only the light of 1 cell phone and a small flashlight was not my idea of a leisurely walk but we only survived ( I only banged my head once on a sharp rock!)  For all my complaining, it was a fun adventure.

At this point we were all tired and ready to head back to the resort for Happy Hour,  looking out on the ocean as the sun set and sipping Pisco Sours!

Another boring? day in Paradise!
Linda
 

Easter Island - Most Remote Inhabited Island in the World

Our flight from Lima to Easter Island was wonderful – of course, it didn't hurt to be flying Premium Business! Ohhhh, those 'lie flat' beds are so comfortable. I am going to have a hard time returning to the “back of the bus!” Thank you, LAN, for the upgrade.

There are many unusual features about Easter Island, but one that I noticed immediately when we landed was that at 7am it was still pitch black, and , even though they are located in the exact middle of the Pacific Ocean, they are on the same time zone as Austin!! And sunset isn't until about 8:15pm at the end of October.  The photos was taken at the airport as I received a lei welcome.

Bare with me while I fill you in on a few details regarding this mysterious island. Although 2500 miles  west of Chile and about 3000 miles east of Tahiti, it is politically linked to Chile but much more Polynesian than the rest of South America.   It is believed that the original inhabitants arrived from Polynesia somewhere 900 BC to 1000 AD; however, as with most questionss regarding Easter Island;  there are no definite answers.. One fact is known for sure -- everyone recognizes the moai as the unique statues of Easter Island.

The first permanent settlements were established in the mid-18^th century and the Chilean government established their authority over the island in the early 19^th century.

Our hotel, the Hanga Roa  has just completed a major restoration giving it a lovely polynesian flare with beautiful ocean views from the rooms and lovely amenities..

 Full board (3meals/day with wine) is included and, much to my surprise, the food is truly gourmet. Especially delicious is the fresh fish caught locally. 

After lunch we went on a small tour of nearby Rapa Nui, the major town (and I use the term loosely) on the island and drove over to Rano Kau, a water-filled volcanic crate and one of the most unforgettable sights on the island.  

Descending into the crater is no longer permitted, but we walked around the top and took numerous photos of the beautiful views from the rim.  Local women used to walk down into the crater to wash clothes and then walk back out with their wet clothes!  And we complain about having to take clothes out of the washer and dryer!!

Our other stop on this short introduction to the island was the Ahu Tahai located within walking distance of our hotel. It is actually a complex of three ahus (stone platforms).  This photo shows the one with a restored topknot and ceramic eyes.   

The ceramic eyes were added due to a request from the brutal Chilean dictator Pinochet when he visited the island.  They were not part of the original moai.

We were beginning to dwindle by this time and ready for the promised Happy Hour at our hotel.  

Heading straight to the deck of the hotel, we sipped Pisco Sours and toasted the sunset and a wonderful first day on Easter Island!

More tomorrow from Easter Island!

Linda

Lima - The City of Kings

We arrived late and were a bit tired but were quickly refreshed when we finally arrived at our hotel, , the Miraflores Park.  This is an elegant small hotel in the center of the fashionable Miraflores district of Lima.

From my spacious room, I have a beautiful view of the ocean and the park across the street. What a special treat it was to have a morning free from any activities.

The afternoon's agenda was an excellent tour of the city with some unique sites   First stop was Lover's Park -- source of named was immediately evident.  Not only the statute to the right but mosaics lining the walk depicted the theme vividly.

Leaving the lovely Miraflores neighborhood we drove on to the San Isidro area.  Here the homes were luxurious and a million USD and upl.  Security was a necessity and included wired fences and video surveillance. We passed one embassy after another, including the US with its huge grounds. Another interesting site were extensive remains of mud brick pyramids. Only in a climate as dry as Lima's would these have remained for so many years (Lima gets about 10in. rain/per year).

Now we were heading into the city center with beautiful examples of colonial architecture, especially the balconies.Getting out of the bus at the Plaza Bolivar for a “bano break.,” we walked into an elegant colonial home and were directed to the bano. It seemed as though we were guests in a wealthy Lima citizen's home – and I found out we were!!

The owner of the home, Juan Aliaga, is a part owner of Latour (sponsor of our fam) and opens his home to small groups. His ancester Jeronimo del Aliaga was the right-hand man of the founder of Francisco Pizarro founder of the city of Lima.

He gave the plot of land that lay over an Inca temple to Jeronimo in gratitude and this home has been in the Aliaga family ever since.

 The current matriarch of the family is 101 years old and still lives the 50-room house with numerous family members. What a treat it was to leisurely stroll through the home and see their lovely photos and antiquities!



Next stop - Plaza de Armas,government headquarters since 1535. Surrounding the plaza was the Presidential Palace, the Archbishop's Palace and a stunning bronze fountain in the city. We grabbed a quick “to-go-coffee” (not quite Starbuck's level) to revive us and headed to our final stop as dusk rapidly approach.


The Church and Convent of San Francisco, built in 1674 is a UNESCO World Heritage site and one of the city's most famous sites. As we descended the steps to the catacombs beneath the church, we could heard the familiar strains of the Wedding Processional. A wedding had just begun above us! In the catacombs the bones of more than 25,000 people are laid out in bizarre but orderly designs.

The evening ended with a visit to the Larco Herrera Museum. I had first toured this museum in 2005 and was stunned by its more than 45,000 pieces of pre-Columbian artifacts and is considered one of the best in the world. Today the museum is even more impressive due to a total renovation several years ago. In a separate area there is an interesting collection of very erotic ceramics – definitely not G-rated.


This wonderful day ended with a delicious meal at the museum's restaurant. And the meal started with a Pisco Sour, my new favorite drink. Had been told the best ones are made in Peru and I am now convinced. I think this will be a perfect way for my clients to end their stay in Peru before heading to the airport for their overnight flight to the US.
Catching a 1:20am LAN flight to Easter Island!
Linda

Sacred Valley of the Incas

The Sun god must REALLY be pleased with us as today is even more beautiful than yesterday. The photo is of the courtyard the hotel's dining room faces. It's easy to picture what the monastery looked like when it was first built in the 1500's. I had gotten up early to make sure I had time for a substantial breakfast and have my suitcase out in the hall by 8am. I was impressed with my efficiency as I wheeled my bag out in the hall only to realize I had locked myself out! Fifteen minutes later I was back in my room and behind schedule which is much more typical of my traveling days!

This morning we were headed for a different area of the Sacred Valley than yesterday's trip to Machu Picchu.

Evidence of the Inca Empire could be seen frequently as the sides of the mountains had many regions covered in the now-familiar agricultural steppes. 

There is not a lot of flat farm land so modern inhabitants of the Valley follow many of the same practices as their Inca ancestors and utilize every available acre.

Our first stop was at the Awana Kancha Camelid Reserve.  Camelids are gentle, long-necked animals and include llamas and alpacas and wild vicunas and guanacos ,  The llamas and alpacas are the best known and their beautiful fleeces are coveted world wide. 

They are hardy survivors of the high-altitude environment of the Andean plateaus.
 
With their large soft eyes and gentile behavior these cousins of the humped-back camel can also display less than pleasant behavior. 

Ask the poor girl in our group who was just walking past one of these gentle llamas and managed to get in the line of his projective spitting. 

She was desperately lookong for a bucket of water to douse her head in!!

Besides seeing the different types of animals I enjoyed watching local women demonstrate the ancient Inca weaving techniques that have been handed down from generation to generation. 

Not only do they teach these beautiful methods but also show how the alpaca wool is dyed and spun into threads used in numerous clothing articles such as shawls, sweaters, hats, gloves, etc. 

I would have longed to linger in the store as the women had some truly beautiful items for sale, but I was saved that expense as our time was up and we were headed to the Pisac Market for more shopping experiences.

More winding roads through this beautiful terrain brought us to the town of Pisac known for its market and ruins. 

Unfortunately, the area around the main plaza was under construction causing the market to be more in a much less interesting location. 

 I wasn't nearly as impressed as I'd been 10 yrs ago and wound up with no purchases but a cute photo of a little girl and her baby llama.

Stomachs were beginning to growl indicating it was time to return to Cusco for lunch.  

Again, everywhere I looked the scenery was like something out of National Geographic.  Easy to understand why the Incas worshiped this region.

Lunch was in a special restaurant right on the Plaza de Armas and was gourmet category.  Peru is truly becoming known as a culinary destination. 

 I managed to shoot a few photos of the Cathedral and Plaza before we headed to the airport for our flight to Lima.

More tomorrow from Lima before we fly out at midnight for Easter Island!

Linda

Machu Picchu - The Lost City

Although weather forecasts had called for rain at Machu Picchu today, the morning dawned bright and sunny here in Cusco. Breakfast on the porch surrounding the courtyard was delicious.

We had been warned that today would be a long one, and it definitely was as we left the hotel at 8:30 and returned just after 10:30pm! Driving through the Sacred Valley of the Incas was even more beautiful than I remembered. We drove through the Urubamba River Valley, past areas of fast-flowing rapids, terrace-lined valleys and an occasional Inca Ruin. About 1 1/2hrs outside of Cusco we arrived at Ollantaytambo where we boarded the Vistadome Train that goes as far as Aguas Calientes on the way to Machu Picchu.

Disembarking the train we boarded buses for the last portion of our journey. For 30 minutes we followed one switch back after another until finally our destination – Machu Picchu – came into view. I can't think of anything I've ever seen that compares to that breath-taking first impression of the ancient citadel!

A little history... Hiram Bingham an American explorer and professor of history at Yale had been searching for the last capital of the Inca State. Guided by a local farmer in the area, on July 24, 2011 he climbed up the peak of the Machu Picchu Mountain and rested in the middle of what is now the Principal Plaza trying to comprehend the site before him and the fact that he had finally completed his long search. Since no written records remained of this region, he decided to give it the same name as the mountain on which it was located – Machu Picchu (“old mountain” in Quechua, the local language.)

After a hearty lunch at the only hotel in the National Park, the Sanctuary Lodge (another Orient Express property,) we began our trek through these incredible ruins. Fortunately, we did not realize that by the time we boarded the buses back to Aguas Calientes about 4:30pm, we would have climbed over 3000 steps! And these were not 'baby' steps – most were at least 12” high!

Always in view was Machu Picchu, the 'old mountain' and Huaynu Picchu, the 'young mountain.' The City itself contains temples, palaces, shrines, plazas, streets,paths, baths and some dwellings (about 200 ) which are thought to have housed the royalty and privileged of the Inca Empire. Much of the area contains steppes used for agriculture.

Incidentally, the weather all afternoon was gorgeous -- no rain and pleasant temperatures!  Obviously, the Inca Sun god was smiling down on us!!!


After arriving back in Aguas Calientes, we just had time for a quick pizza at a local cafe near the train station before boarding the Vistadome  and heading back to Cusco.

Tomorrow we'll tour more of this area in the morning and then catch a flight to Lima where we'll be spending the evening.
Linda

Cusco - Ancient Capitol of the Inkas

The JetBlue 3 1/2hr flight from Austin to JFK was, fortunately, uneventful and on time – what more can you ask from an airline? Oh, and, no charge for my checked baggage!

I wasn't thrilled about the 7hr layover in JFK before my midnight flight to Lima but preferred that over a tight connection. A pleasant surprise awaited me when I checked in at the LAN Airlines counter. They are members of the One World Alliance with American Airlines and had a complimentary pass to the Admiral's Club for the agents going on this fam (familiarization trip for travel agents.) We met in the Lounge and spent a relaxing evening before the flight. I'll probably always remember watching the Obama/Romney debate in the middle of the JFK Admiral's Club. My other debate memory was listening to the Reagan/Mondale debate in 1984 from the back of our boat cruising down the Yangtze!

A glass of wine, 2 meals, an Ambien, and 6 hours later I was  landing in Lima feeling pretty good after only 4-hours sleep. 

One more short flight and we were landing in Cusco.  The sight was beautiful as I could see the cathedral and Plaza de Armas and the city  surrounded by mountains.

A major enticement to joining this fam was the fact that we would be staying in Orient Express properties in Peru.  I book them frequently and felt it was my turn to experience these unique places that my clients love.  We are staying at The Monasterio Hotel in Cusco.  The building was a former monastery built in the 1500's by the Spanish, and I soon learned why my clients enjoyed their stay. The ambiance made me feel as though I was in a Spanish monastery but with all the modern updates I could possibly want including Wifi!  One unique amenity is their oxygenated rooms designed to help travelers adjust to the 10,000 ft altitude. I can't wait to see if this extra oxygen gives me a boost in my sleep-deprived condition!

Our flight to Cusco was delayed so time didn't permit the lunch and a short rest we supposed to have upon arrival.  Instead, our hearty ban headed out on a tour of the region.  High in the Andes  Cusco was the capital of the Incas. The Incan word cusco  means “navel” or “center”as this was where the Incas began their powerful empire. Cusco has grown somewhat since I was here over 10 years ago, but it still has a charming historical section with beautiful Spanish colonial architecture andtouches of the Inca civilization still present.

We drove to a site, known as Sacsayhuaman, an ancient Inka structure high above Cusco,  Built for largely ceremonial purposes, it was used as a fortress in 1556 when Manco Inka laid seige to Cusco. 

What is so incredible about the structure is the huge stones which were transported from a quarry 5 miles away long before the wheel was invented and were stacked together without mortar but fit so tight a blade of grass cannot fit between them. Note the photo showing how a stone was carved to fit exactly with the lower one. 

The name is pronounced “Sexy Woman,” and I just couldn't resist getting my picture taken in front of the ruins!!

By now the weather had turned windy and much cooler.  Drastic changes in temperature are not unusual in the mountain/valley region.  Next stop was at the Q'enqo Ruins which were only recently uncovered beneath soil that had been the foundations for Spanish structures.  Earthquakes destroyed the Spanish buildings but the Incas remained intact.  A passageway led to a cave in the Q'engo site where the priests sacrificed animals to their gods.

The sun was now setting on our first day in Peru so our final stop was back in the old city at the Santo Domingo Convent Monastery, previously the Koricancha Temple, one of the most important temples devoted to the Inka worship of the sun.  So many of the sites in the Cusco area are a combination of Inka and Spanish religions.  According to history, the Inkas had built a huge plate covered in gold leaf that was so bright in sunlight its reflection was seen for miles away.  The Spaniards were thrilled with this discovery as well as many other gold plated walls in the temple as evidenced by the holes the made removing the gold.

The Sales Manager at the Monastery Hotel hosted us for a beautiful dinner tonight in their lovely dining room.  The meal was delicious and truly gourmet.  Cusco is certainly giving Lima competition in the culinary category. I'm afraid our eyelids were really drooping as it had been 2 days since we'd slept in a bed. It was definitely time to try them out!

Tomorrow is an early and wonderful but long day as we board a train u in the morning bound for this mystical site.
More from Peru tomorrow.. 

Linda

Machu Picchu and Easter Island -- Remants of Vanished Societies

Once again my plans to stay home for awhile have been cast aside.  I just returned from Colombia less than a month ago but couldn't turn down this wonderful opportunity to visit  two very special destinations, one of which was still on my Bucket List

I have been to Peru, but that was several years ago and my last trip did not include Machu Picchu so I'm looking forward to seeing what has changed at the Ruins and nearby town.  Several years ago Orient Express took over ownership of the rundown property that was in the park and  made the Sanctuary Lodge the premier and closest accommodation to the Ruins.

We'll also visit  Cusco, the ancient capital of the Inca civilization and gateway to Machu Picchu as well as Lima, the capital of Peru and known as "The City of Kings." More on these areas soon as Peru is our first stop.

The highlight of the trip for me, however, will be Easter Island.  I honestly never thought I would see firsthand this remote and fascinating destination.  Located in the middle of the Pacific Ocean over 2000 miles west of Chile it is the most remote inhabited island in the world.  Recognized all over the world for its over 400 iconic stone carvings, these structures, known as Moai, still dot the landscape.  It is truly an archaeological and anthropological wonderland.

Hard to believe that in just a few days I'll actually be seeing this famous destination. I've heard Wifi is sketchy on the island (not surprising) so don't know how often I'll be able to send out posts but will certainly give it a try.

I leave tomorrow on Jet Blue to JFK and after a 7-hr layover fly nonstop on LAN Airlines to Lima.
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More from South America soon.
Linda