Sunday, May 1, 2011

Hanoi - Ancient Culture and Colonial Charms

I must have been really tired last night as I forgot to set the alarm and overslept.  As a result, however, I awoke refreshed and ready to see the sites of Hanoi.

Today was a nonstop day and to add to our busy schedule, it was a national holiday celebrating Liberation Day (Saigon fell 36 years ago) and May Day.

As we headed toward our first stop, Ho Chi Minh's Mausoleum, our guide reminded us that Vietnam is one of 5 remaining Communist countries -- the other 4 being China, Laos, North Korea and Cuba.  I had not felt like I was in a repressed society; in fact, Hanoi has the same hustle and bustle as other Asian cities, but that feeling changed as we arrived at the Mausoleum.  We were told to stand in 2 very straight lines along with many other Vietnamese on holiday.  If we got a little sloppy in our lines, we were immediately reprimanded.  The structure and surroundings were reminiscent of Lenin's tomb in Moscow.  Entering the structure we were hushed if anyone whispered, told to keep our hands out of our pockets, and to keep moving; in fact, a guard grabbed my arm as I paused to look at the body.  It actually looked like a wax figure, but I assume it really was Ho Chi Minh.  He died several years before the end of the war, and his desire had been to be cremated, but Russian and Chinese pressure for a lasting memorial resulted in this shrine. A visit heree is indeed a very experience and shows the love  his people still  have for him..

We visited several other sites --Ho Chi Minh's simple 3-room home, One Pillar Pagoda, Temple of Literature, the Fine Arts Museum and a local nonprofit craft shop(yes, I'm already finding things I can't resist!) before stopping for a delicious Vietnamese lunch and site inspection at the historic Metropole hotel.  This French colonial masterpiece in the heart of the city was the hotel I stayed in with my group in 2001.  It's still lovely.

The afternoon began on a somber note with the "Hanoi Hilton".  This infamous prison, originally named Maison Centrale, was built to hold countless Vietnamese imprisoned, tortured and guillotined by the French.  To this day many Vietnamese fell hatred for the suffering they endured during the 100 years of colonialism.  There is, however, none of these feelings toward Americans whom they see as a temporary intruder whom they defeated while they felt the French exploited their land for its natural products and caused great suffering among the people.

Around the corner from the prison we stepped into waiting cyclos(three-wheeled rickshaws pedaled by drivers)  for a fun ride through the Old Quarter.  We passed tiny shops, sidewalk vendors, women carrying huge bundles on their heads or balancing heavy wicker baskets hanging from poles across their shoulders.  Except for the motorbikes and cars, the scene hadn't changed a lot in many years.

Back at the hotel for a 30-minute change of clothes and off again to Dao Anh Khanh's Villa in residential neighborhood.  We were treated to music by a string quarter at an outdoor cocktail reception.  This well-know artist has a very unique studio containing many contemporary and fascinating works of art, but the building and surrounding gardens were unlike anything I'd ever seen.  I honestly can't find a way to describe the various statues and paintings, but, needless to say, it was an enjoyable experience.

Next on the agenda was one of my favorite memories from the earlier trip -- The Hanoi Water Puppet Show.   It may sound touristy, but these puppets dance and perform in incredible ways on water right before your eyes.  Not sure how it all works but very entertaining.

A VERY long day ended with another delicious Vietnamese meal at the Wildrice Restaurant.  This was my 3rd local dining experience and everyone was different and very tasty.

After a whirlwind tour of Hanoi, I still find it a lovely city of beautiful parks, lakes, excitement and gracious people.  We will bid farewell to this Paris of the East and drive to Halong Bay in the morning.  This is one of the country's most beautiful locations and we will be spending tomorrow night on a traditional  Vietnamese junk(traditional sailing boat.)
From Hanoi...
Linda

No comments: