The Mekong Delta - A Day in Rural Vietnam

Our last day in Vietnam... how did the trip go so quickly? We are spending the day in the Mekong Delta, a countryside south of Saigon that I had not seen.c

A little background on our destination --the Mekong River begins in Tibet, flows through China, Burma, Laos, Cambodia and Vietnam before reaching the sea. It is divided into the northern and southern Mekong Rivers. The Delta has recovered from the bombing and defoliation of the war and produces lush vegetation – farmland dominates the landsape like a patchwork quilt of green rice paddy fields, banana and mango trees, pineapples and many others all fed by nourishing brown waters of the Mekong River as it flows through them.. We passed numerous small villages with friendly locals eager to wave at us.

Arriving in Cai Be, we boarded a typical small Chinese junk boat and began cruising through these waters. This river is truly the commercial hub of the region. Everywhere on the main tributary we saw boats of every size and description.

The photo above shows a sampon entrepeneur in the back selling thatch for roofs  while the woman in the foreground  is selling watermelons.  A lot of the sampons served as dwellings for their occupants.

Having seen the commercial side of the delta we turned down a smaller tributary.Here and there we would see a woman paddeling a sampon or...

children smiling at us as we passed by.

Water hyacinth was ever present and as welcome as kudzu in the southeastern US!

Our first stop was at a small factory (and I use that term loosely) that produced various candies from local products. It was fascinating to see how rice becomes puffed rice cereal by tossing it briefly in hot oil. This could then be added to a caramelized sauce which is mixed briefly with the puffed rice to make another candy. Using coconut milk creates a coconut toffee. I couldn't resist these goodies and bought several bags

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About 30 minutes later we docked again and climbed ashore at a fruit orchard where a local family served us a delicious lunch. Each table was presented with a whole 'elephant' fish that had been fried.After time for fish photos, the hostess used chopsticks to pick morsels of this incredibly delicious fish and place it on rice paper topped with herbs and salad. She then rolled it in the shape of a spring roll. Believe it or not, this was definitely yummy!

We cruised along the river passing more rural life and glimpses of a society virtually unknown to most Americans. Arriving at the Vinh Long pier, we boarded our waiting bus and drove back to Saigon.

Back at The Caravelle by 5p, I sprinted a few blocks away for final purchases. Our Farewell Dinner was at the acclaimed Nam Phan Restaurant and was an appropriate ending to “The Phenomenal Vietnam Fam.” We'd become 'family' during our journey through Vietnam and were all sad to say good by.

Before I end this last blog, I want to tell you about a very special person who is making a difference in this world, one child at a time. I've been on a lot of fam trips and led many myself, but Chris has been the funniest, patient, compassionate, organized and knowledgeable tour leader I have ever known.

But that's just one side of Chris. As we got to know him better we saw photos of the 14 children from war-ravaged countries in Southeast Asia that Chris has taken into his home. . We gained insight into the stories of several of these children and all were heartbreaking. He rents a 9-bedroom home in northern Thailand and provides a wonderful environment for children whose own society has abused or deserted them. I wish I had more time and space to tell you about how well each child is doing, but suffice it to say it is truly heart warming to learn how one very special person.is making a difference in this world.

I hope my tales of Vietnam have painted a vivid picture of this wonderful country and will encourage some of you to see it for yourself. Although I'll miss Vietnam, I am ready for a hamburger and some good old Tex-Mex!

Signing off from Saigon,

Linda.

Saigon - Cu Chi Tunnels

Weather forecast from my room not too accurate as the windows were so fogged up by the humidity that I couldn't see the sky! When the windows cleared and another bright, sunny morning appeared.

In hopes of beating the mid-day heat at the Cu Chi Tunnels, we left the hotel early and drove past literally thousands of motor scooters coming into Saigon. Soon we were on a rural road heading west toward Cambodia (just an hour away.) . This is the Cu Chi region of Vietnam and has been a vital region in the country's history. One attraction for the French was rubber plantations (Michelin invested heavily in the region). A poor Vietnamese man from the north who couldn't pay taxes owed to the French were transported to this region and forced to work the plantations. Many died of tropical fevers and maltreatment, beginning the Vietnamese hatred of French.colonialism.

Ho Chi Minh desperatly wanted to free Vietnam from the French and appealed to President Truman in the post-war 1940's. Feeling loyalty to their wartime ally, the US refused to aid him in driving out the French; thus forcing him to turn to China and the Soviet Union for support. The Viet Cong (South Vietnamese loyal to Ho Chi Minh) were in the Cu Chi area and began to build tunnels to hide from the French and later the Americans. Much of this rich countryside was destroyed by Agent Orange spraying used by the US to defoliate areas where the VC could hide. It was also the most heavily bombed region of Vietnam as over 500,000 tons of bombs were dropped.

After a brief stop to see how rice paper is made for the spring rolls so popular in Vietnam (we used them in our cooking class), we arrived at the Cu Chi Tunnels.

Fortunately, eucalyptus trees have reforested the area, and we had shade as we walked to the tunnels. It is estimated that over 124 miles of tunnels laced the region around Cu Chi; in fact, the Mekong Delta headquarters of the US Army's 25^th Division was built over part of them. There were 3 levels of tunnels, 10, 20 and 30ft deep. The top level could withstand a tank, the second layer moderate mortar attacks while the deepest was virtually impregnable. Relentless cluster bombing by B-52's eventually destroyed much of this network. Photos shows some of the undetonated cluster bombs that were found in the area.

The tunnels were not intended for long-term use but had meeting rooms, barracks, makeshift hospitals(photo of operating table on left) and storage for supplies shipped down the Ho Chi Minh Trail that ended in Cu Chi. We sampled the staple diet – tapioca root dipped in chopped peanuts -- definitely not to my liking.

A few 'brave' (or crazy) members of the group went down into the very narrow, extremely shallow, hot tunnels inhabited by bats! I had climbed down the steep steps 10 years ago and decided I needed prove to myself that I was still up to the challenge. It's definitely not a pleasant experience but one that convinces any visitor of the resourcefulness and perseverence of the Vietnamese which eventually led to their winning the war!

We were definitely a motley, dirty bunch as we drove back to the city. Lunch was at Skewers, a Mediterranean restaurant and a change from the delicious Vietnamese food we'd been sampling. A highlight of lunch was meeting Tony, owner of Ann's Tourist.  This is the local travel agency responsible for our tours and transfers. He told us how his dad was killed in the war in 1970 and just a few weeks before Saigon fell, his mother who worked at the American Embassy decided they needed to leave the country. She put 7 year old Tony and his 6 year old brother to bed, telling them they would all leave in the morning. But when they awoke, she was gone and they were loaded on a plane bound for California. After a few months at Camp Pendleton, a great aunt took them to live with her. They grew up and attended college in California but never knew what had happened to their mother for 19 years.  One day she called and through many tears learned that she had not been able to located them until just recently.  A few years later the boys returned to Saigon where they joined their mom in her travel agency which has become quite successful.  Today is Mother's Day and that special story of a reunion between a mother and her sons was very moving for all of us.

Before dinner tonight we visited the Truc Mai House where a family of local artists entertained us with music played on traditional Vietnamese instruments.  The music was lovely and we enjoyed getting a chance later to try them ourselves.

Tomorrow we will  leave the city for a tour of the fascinating Mekong Delta by Chinese junk boat.  This will be our last day in Vietnam and promises to be a special one.

Linda

Saigon vs Ho Chi Minh City - Traditional Cultures and Modern City

Although this may be starting to sound redundant, the morning dawned even more beautiful than the last with the sky lit up the deepest coral I have seen yet.  Fortunately, last night's rain was short lived.

After a quick breakfast we bid farewell to this lovely resort and headed back to Danang airport for the one hour flight to Ho Chi Minh City or Saigon as the locals --and yours truly -- still prefer.  Relatively young in Vietnamese history (about 300 years) , the city still contains aspects of French, Vietnamese., Chinese, Soviet and US influences  Immediately, I noticed  the more cosmopolitan atmosphere of this city over Hanoi.

Before checking into our hotel, we stopped at the War Remnants Museum.  Initially opened in 1975 as the Museum of American War Crimes, its controversial name was changed in 1997 as part of conditions dictated by the US government in trade negotiations.  I was surprised at what an excellent exhibition was featured in the very poignant Requiem Hall,  The exhibit here contained a  large collection of photos taken by 134 photojournalists from 11 nations who were killed in the conflict.  These photos provided a truly a sobering reminder of the horrors of war for both sides, and the room was eerily quiet as each person became absorbed in his own thoughts and emotions.

From here we stopped briefly at the Saigon Central Post Office, a classic colonial building designed in 1891 and still containing such items as old-fashioned pots of glue for stamps.




 Another stop for photos was at the Notre Dame Cathedral built in 1880 making it the oldest church in Vietnam. The French were responsible for building the Cathedral as well as the spread of Catholicism to Vietnam giving it the 2nd largest Catholic population in Southeast Asia after the Philippines.

By now our rooms were ready at The Caravelle Hotel which is one of the most historic hotels in the city.  This name became a household word during the Vietnam War as it was home to the AP, NBC, CBS, New York Times and the Washington Post.  Located  in Lam Son Square, its central location allowed me to make a quick expedition to nearby shops.

Dinner tonight at The Temple Club proved to be one of our favorite meals.  Not only was the food delicious but the decor was charming. 

Tomorrow is a big day as we are off to see the infamous Cu Chi Tunnels.  Early start so will call it a day.
Linda

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Hoi An - Local Markets and Cooking Class

Another beautiful morning -- fortunately, the Weather Channel forecasts of daily rain have proved total wrong, thus far.  The only moisture has been our perspiration due to the incredible humidity!  Breakfast gets better and better.  Fresh mango smoothies, Eggs Benedict, chocolate croissants, etc., etc., etc!  fortunately, the Vietnamese food has been lower calorie than the American breakfasts they've been serving us.

And, speaking of food (one of my favorite pastimes) we were in for a really fun morning.  Driving back into Hoi An, we got to participate in a private cooking class at Miss Vy's cooking academy.  A true entrepeneur, Miss Vy sold her wedding band (she did keep her husband) to finance her first restaurant.  Now she owns several restaurants in town, a hotel and has published a lovely cookbook. Two of her assistants gave us a very informative and interesting tour through the local vegetable and fruit markets.  They explained the main herbs used in Vietnamese cooking and their purpose as well as nutritional benefits.  One of my favorite dishes has been banana flower salads and I finally learned exactly where the main ingredient comes from on the banana plant.  We learned about uses for green mangoes and bananas, dragon fruit, papaya skin and many other ingredients.

Once we had completed our shopping list, we walked back through the Old Town to the Morning Glory Restaurant, one of Miss Vy's restaurants where she also has her cooking class. Miss Vy met us and escorted us to a room that had been completely transformed into a cooking class.

She began by telling us a little of her past history and the process of becoming a restaurant owner.  She explained in a very entertaining manner the nutritional value and uniqueness of Vietnamese cuisine.  There is virtually no dairy products in their diet and very little red meat, but they get their calcium and iron through plants and herbs used in their daily diets.  The class was very organized and each of us had the ingredients we needed to prepare the dish she described.  First, we made delicious wraps with rice paper, a few shrimp, very thin slices of pork tenderloin, herbs and a small, fried roll.  They were soooo good and more dishes followed. 

Next we prepared marinated boneless chicken that was then grilled by the staff (she didn't trust us with fire -- a wise decision!). Our final dish was called a crispy Hoi An Pancake and was a cross between a tortilla and a crepe filled with shrimp, pork slices, green banana and star fruit slices and topped with sweet and sour sauce.  Again, absolutely delicious.

By now it was 1pm and we had the choice of staying in Hoi An to do some shopping (great town for silk) or returning to The Nam Ha. We were all pretty warm by now, and the memory of that beautiful pool and/or ocean was too enticing.  We all returned to the resort and spent a wonderful, relaxing afternoon.

Some clouds came in about sunset and provided a breathtaking end to a wonderful day.

Dinner tonight will be at the resort, and, if it's anything like breakfast, it will be fabulous.
Sadly, we must leave this paradise and drive to Danang for a morning flight to Ho Chi Minh City (Saigon).  We'll enjoy Saigon I'm sure but will leave Hoi An with incredible memories.

Tomorrow from Saigon..
Linda
FYI - Not a drop of rain until I wrote about our good weather and we had to move under cover when it began to rain tonight on our dinner by the pool.  Tend to forget the power of suggestion that I have!

Hoi An - 2000 years old!

Hard to realize that I'm sitting on my balcony watching the sun rise over the Perfume River in central Vietnam and talking with my daughter Rachel via Skype on my iPhone!  Our stay in Hue has been much too brief but there's still a lot on our agenda 

Leaving the La Residence Hotel we stopped briefly for a site inspection at the Hotel Morin where we stayed in 2001. The hotel has had some much-needed renovations but its charm  still remained.

 Our route took us along Hwy. 1 and over the Hai Van Pass, one of the most spectacular in Vietnam. Stopping briefly at the Pass we climbed a hill to see old US and even older French bunkers that were still standing. And then it was on to Danang.

Located halfway between Hanoi and Saigon, the city saw the first 3500 US Marines come ashore in 1965(photo on the left)) and 10 years later, as communist troops rolled into town, two American 727 jets evacuated the last US soldiers out of the country.

We stopped for lunch at the Furama Resort on famous China Beach, named by US servicemen who enjoyed their R&R's here. For almost 30 years after the war, the beach was virtually deserted, but investors are coming in now and developing it into a popular beach resort.

Thirty minutes later we were pulling into the grounds of  The Nam Hai Resort near Hoi An..  I had heard rumors that we were in for something special and that was definitely an understatement. Each one bedroom villa has both indoor and outdoor sitting areas. A raised platform is set in the middle of the villa which was enclosed under a cozy mosquito net canopy when I returned from dinner in Hoi An.  It's absolutely incredible, to say the least!

Only a short time later I had to depart this 'shangri-la' as we were headed into Hoi An, an ancient city on the banks of the Thu Bon River.  Before stopping for dinner, we took an early evening stroll through this town that traces its roots back to the 2nd century. As the sun set and darkness settled in on this charming town, I took a photo of the river and then joined our group for dinner in a local restaurant.

Tomorrow morning we'll return to Hoi An for a trip to the local market to obtain items for our cooking lesson.  Details to follow but now it's very late and time to enjoy my lovely room.

Hue -- Ancient Dynasties and Modern Wars

We were a pretty bedraggled group when we arrived late into Hue, Vietnam's former imperial capital and scene of  the 1968 Tet Offensive.  The welcome awaiting us at La Residence Hotel & Spa as well as the elegance and colonial charm of this former French building revived us. After a delicious room service dinner compliments of Chris and Asia Transpacific Journeys, I fell asleep.

The next morning I awoke to a sunny view of the Perfume River from my balcony. This view and a hearty breakfast -- what more could I ask?

Our explorations of Hue began witha tour of the Imperial Citadel.  I'm reading The Cat from Hue,an excellent book,  written by a CBS Vietam War correspondent. Beginning early in 1968 with the Tet Offensive he describes in vivid detail how the Viet Cong held out in this fortified ancient citadel against American forces for nearly 2 months with over 10,000 deaths. Many priceless historical relics were destroyed and further damage was inflicted by typhoons and flooding.  Hue was virtually neglected until tourism returned to Vietnam in the 1990's.  Fashioned after Beijing's Imperial City, this huge structure covers over 1200 acres and is surrounded by a moat.  We passed through several enclosures until reaching the Forbidden Purple City reserved solely for the royal family.  Used as a bunker by the Viet Cong it was almost totally destroyed but is being restored. Holes made by mortar shells were still obvious.

 Lunch at the lovely Ana Mandara Resort was a real treat.  This gorgeous resort is  located on a South China Sea Beach about 30 min. SW of Hue.  I couldn't believe a lovely 1 bedroom suite was only $350/nt!  Vietnam is definitely a bargain.

Refreshed by lunch we were ready for the afternoon's itinerary.  Unlike other Vietnamese dynasties, the Nguyens of Hue did not bury their family members in their native villages but instead built imperial tombs on the hillsides along either side of the Perfume River west and south of Hue.  We visited the Tu Doc and Khai Dinh tombs.  The photo on the left shows the giant dragon staircase leading to the first courtyard of the Khai Dinh tomb.

Next stop was the Thien Mu Pagoda overlooking the Perfume River.  What most American's remember, however, is that in 1963, a monk from this temple travelled to Saigon and burnt himself to death in protest of President Diem's repression of Budhists in South Vietnam.  A photo of the monk alight in flames as well as the car he drove to Saigon are on display here.

As the sun was setting we climbed aboard a colorful boat and cruiseed down the now-familiar Perfume River back to Hue.  Disembarking at a very colorful and busy local market, we were greeted with many unusual sightts and scents  as passed through it on our way back to the hotel. Tomorrow we're on the road again, this time south to the town of Hoi An with some interesting stops along the way.

   More from Central Vietnam tomorrow...
Linda

Halong Bay - Vietnam's Pearl!

It was a beautiful morning with bright sunshine as we drove through Hanoi and crossed the Red River – no, we're not heading to Oklahoma! The Red River is Vietnam's 2^nd largest river behind the Mekong. What a contrast from Hanoi as we passed through lush green fields in the delta land with bananas,corn and other crops.

About 4 hours later we arrived at Halong Bay in the Gulf of Tonkin. This famous bay was named a UNESCO World Heritage Site for it's natural beauty and biological diversity and encompasses almost 600 sq. miles of emerald green water studded with over 3000 limestone pinnacles in the Gulf of Tonkin. Over time, rain and elements created caves within some of the limestone rocks although Vietnam legends attribute them to a dragon's tail as he slipped into the water.

Just as we about to board our junk, the Paradise Cruise, our tour leader, Chris Gold, had some bad news for us. A big storm was approaching, and the Vietnamese Marine Authority was closing the bay for overnight stays. Just a short time ago a junk had sunk in the bay resulting in 13 deaths so the Vietnamese government was taking no chances. We would be allowed to sail in the bay until 5pm at which time we would have to leave the junk and overnight in a nearby motel. Needless to say we were all disappointed as this overnight in Halong Bay had been highly anticipated. It was one thing I had not gotten to do on my earlier trip..

As we set sail, the afternoon weather was beautiful making the formations even more breathtaking. Cameras were clicking on all sides as we tried to preserve these images before time ran out About 4pm Chris called a meeting in the lounge and, with a big grin on his face, reported the government had lifted the ban as the storm had turned north of us. We were ecstatic and immediately changed into bathing suits for swimming and kayaking in the bay. My kayaking experience consisted of 2 previous outings-- once in Tahiti and later in New Zealand, but the 'old skills' quickly returned and it felt almost surreal as we paddled through the beautiful water in the small bay, passing close to the green covered pinnacles silhouetted against the setting sun. What fun, but I was sure I'd have sore muscles as I climbed back on our boat.

For the early risers there was Tai Chi on the upper deck at sunrise.. A first for me but a great way to start the day. As we sat on the deck eating breakfast, local 'boat vendors' approached selling various wares. Goods and money were passed up and down in a basket on a long pole. Serious negotiations resulted in purchases of pearls for many of us. Our last activity was a boat ride to a nearby cave and a beautiful small bay. We weren't alone as a family of monkeys scampered about on the stone pinnacles. It was perfect ending to our overnight in 'Paradise.'

Sadly, we bid our crew a fond farewell and drove back to Hanoi to catch a late evening flight to Hue

From northeastern Vietnam...

Linda.

Hanoi - Ancient Culture and Colonial Charms

I must have been really tired last night as I forgot to set the alarm and overslept.  As a result, however, I awoke refreshed and ready to see the sites of Hanoi.

Today was a nonstop day and to add to our busy schedule, it was a national holiday celebrating Liberation Day (Saigon fell 36 years ago) and May Day.

As we headed toward our first stop, Ho Chi Minh's Mausoleum, our guide reminded us that Vietnam is one of 5 remaining Communist countries -- the other 4 being China, Laos, North Korea and Cuba.  I had not felt like I was in a repressed society; in fact, Hanoi has the same hustle and bustle as other Asian cities, but that feeling changed as we arrived at the Mausoleum.  We were told to stand in 2 very straight lines along with many other Vietnamese on holiday.  If we got a little sloppy in our lines, we were immediately reprimanded.  The structure and surroundings were reminiscent of Lenin's tomb in Moscow.  Entering the structure we were hushed if anyone whispered, told to keep our hands out of our pockets, and to keep moving; in fact, a guard grabbed my arm as I paused to look at the body.  It actually looked like a wax figure, but I assume it really was Ho Chi Minh.  He died several years before the end of the war, and his desire had been to be cremated, but Russian and Chinese pressure for a lasting memorial resulted in this shrine. A visit heree is indeed a very experience and shows the love  his people still  have for him..
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We visited several other sites --Ho Chi Minh's simple 3-room home, One Pillar Pagoda, Temple of Literature, the Fine Arts Museum and a local nonprofit craft shop(yes, I'm already finding things I can't resist!) before stopping for a delicious Vietnamese lunch and site inspection at the historic Metropole hotel.  This French colonial masterpiece in the heart of the city was the hotel I stayed in with my group in 2001.  It's still lovely.

The afternoon began on a somber note with the "Hanoi Hilton".  This infamous prison, originally named Maison Centrale, was built to hold countless Vietnamese imprisoned, tortured and guillotined by the French.  To this day many Vietnamese fell hatred for the suffering they endured during the 100 years of colonialism.  There is, however, none of these feelings toward Americans whom they see as a temporary intruder whom they defeated while they felt the French exploited their land for its natural products and caused great suffering among the people.

Around the corner from the prison we stepped into waiting cyclos(three-wheeled rickshaws pedaled by drivers)  for a fun ride through the Old Quarter.  We passed tiny shops, sidewalk vendors, women carrying huge bundles on their heads or balancing heavy wicker baskets hanging from poles across their shoulders.  Except for the motorbikes and cars, the scene hadn't changed a lot in many years.

Back at the hotel for a 30-minute change of clothes and off again to Dao Anh Khanh's Villa in residential neighborhood.  We were treated to music by a string quarter at an outdoor cocktail reception.  This well-know artist has a very unique studio containing many contemporary and fascinating works of art, but the building and surrounding gardens were unlike anything I'd ever seen.  I honestly can't find a way to describe the various statues and paintings, but, needless to say, it was an enjoyable experience.

Next on the agenda was one of my favorite memories from the earlier trip -- The Hanoi Water Puppet Show.   It may sound touristy, but these puppets dance and perform in incredible ways on water right before your eyes.  Not sure how it all works but very entertaining.

A VERY long day ended with another delicious Vietnamese meal at the Wildrice Restaurant.  This was my 3rd local dining experience and everyone was different and very tasty.

After a whirlwind tour of Hanoi, I still find it a lovely city of beautiful parks, lakes, excitement and gracious people.  We will bid farewell to this Paris of the East and drive to Halong Bay in the morning.  This is one of the country's most beautiful locations and we will be spending tomorrow night on a traditional  Vietnamese junk(traditional sailing boat.)
From Hanoi...
Linda