Friday, October 23, 2015

Rouen - the Historic Capital of Normandy

 After a good night's sleep and another hearty breakfast, we were refreshed and ready to go ashore in Rouen.  A short walk along the quai and across the bridge over the Seine and we were in the Old City.

Founded by the Romans on the right bank of the Seine, Rouen was made the capital of Normandy by the Viking leader, Rollo, in the 10th century.   Rollo was baptized into the Christian faith with the name of Robert and began a lineage that extended from William the Conqueror to Queen Elizabeth II.


Rouen  eventually expanded to both sides of the Seine. During WWII the modern section of the city was heavily bombed and later rebuilt.  Fortunately, much of the old city was spared.

Walking through the historic section, we passed superb half-timbered houses.  One the top of a gate over the busiest street in the old city is Rouen's striking astrological clock built in 1527-29.  It has one hand showing the hours plus a small window beneath the dial with symbols representing days of the week and a silver spherical shape indicating the phases of the moon.

Built between the 12th and 16 centuries the Cathedral Notre-Dame is an excellent example of Flamboyant Gothic architecture.  The blue stained-glass windows were stunning and indicative of older glass.  Fortunately, they were moved to safety early in the war and later restored to the church.  

The Viking leader Rollo's bronze effigy lies atop his empty tomb in the Cathedral.

Our next stop was at the very modern church of St. Joan of Arc.  The church has stunning 16th century stained-glass windows which were removed from the church of Saint-Vincent in 1939 and hidden during WWII .  A very wise move, as Saint-Vincent was totally destroyed.

Right beside the church of St. Joan of Arc is  the Place du Vieux Marche which was the scene of public executions in the Middle Ages.

It was at this site that Joan of Arc was burnt alive in 1431 after being falsely accused of heresy.  She was later 'rehabilitated' and eventually canonized as a saint in the Church.

By now we were becoming aware of hunger pains and found Paul's Brasserie opposite the cathedral where we enjoyed a delicious lunch.  The rest of the afternoon was spent seeing other sites in the city including one of the Jewish synagogues.

More tomorrow from Les Andelys.  I'm hoping to go on a bicycle expedition.
Linda




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