Strasbourg - Germany or France???

Today we're in the charming city of Strasbourg, France, where the local joke is that the city keeps 2 sets of street signs, one in French and the other in German, so they'll be ready for whichever country is currently in command! Over the centuries it has been passed back and forth between France and Germany many times, but for now, it's a French city. There were swans all around our ship when we docked.
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I'm getting pretty good at weather forecasting.  Even tho it's dark when I get up, if I see stars, I know we're in for a beautiful day, and I was definitely correct today. As we drove into the city, we could see huge stork nests in the tree tops and were told this bird is the city's symbol -- no wonder we saw so many stork designs in the markets!

Once in the city we were supposed to take a canal cruise through the small rivers that run through the old city, but previous rains had raised the water levels so high, we couldn't pass through the bridges.


The substituted itinerary, however, was even better than seeing the canals.  We now had time to go into Strasbourg's famous cathedral which was begun in the 1100's.

I've seen a lot of cathedrals in Europe, but this was the most impressive one yet.  Our guide was excellent and pointed out sites I would never have noticed.

  Its famous astrological clock was amazing.  Although hard to visualize from this photo, every 15 minutes various figures on the clock strike the time by performing various motions.  For example, on one level there are the 4 stages of life -- birth, adulthood, maturity and old age.  On the quarter hour one figure moves to center front.  One angel on a lower level strike the hour while another turns an hour-glass upside down.  This clock keeps perfect time.

Lining either side of the sanctuary were the cathedral's 12 heirloom tapestries that portray the life of the Virgin Mary.Only at Christmas are the beautiful tapestries displayed. Photo above left.
                                      
  Once outside the cathedral and armed with maps and our guide's directions, we began exploring some of the city's 11 Christmas markets.  One of our favorites was the Christkindelsmarik in the Place Broglie.  Many of the vendors had traditional wares that they had created themselves. 

We bought large Gingerbread cookies at one stall.  Ours were a bit smaller than the one on this building, but it'll be a miracle if they make it home.   

Although we'd already managed to purchase our first Gluhwein from this market, hunger was grabbing our attention.  Some opted for the delicious potato pancakes we'd seen in other areas, but I was longing for a traditional bratwurst on a crusty bun.  I found something even better.  At this stall they were putting a mixture of spatzel(German noodles made out of potato flour) and kraut.  It was delicious!!

There were more markets and we managed to visit several, but just as delightful were the street scenes.  Each street had different decorations.  One had huge glass boxes that contained priceless Baccarat crystal chandeliers while others were silver balls or white stars.  I'm sure there were many we didn't even get to see.

 One lady was playing an organ grinder and on another street Santa zoomed by on his bicycle.  I tried to get a picture of his face but gave up after running halfway across a row of market stalls.

 

Worms and Heidelberg

Monday evening was St. Nicholas Eve and we were all instructed to leave a shoe outside our door and St. Nicholas would leave us a present based on how good we had been.  I was greedy and put my big boot out instead of a regular shoe and St. Nicholas was not pleased.  Instead of a chocolate St. Nick, I received a chocolate Devil!

My weather luck ran out this morning as it was raining intermittently as we left the boat and headed into Worms.  This city is famous for its association with Martin Luther and the Diet of Worms, the general assembly of the Holy Roman Empire which declared him a heretic.  Eventually support grew for Luther, leading to the birth of Protestantism.
The cathedral dominated the Worm's skyline with its two domed choirs and four corner towers.for nearly 1000 years but was set afire during the last few months of WWII by the Royal Air Force. It has since been restored along with much of the city.

Outside the cathedral was another famous site, the Jewish Cemetery in Worms, dating from the 11th century and believed to be the oldest in Europe.  The Jewish community was established in the late 10th century and the first synagogue was erected in 1034.

Further along on our route was a portion of the old city wall begun by the Romans.  The white bricks date back to this era.

By now the intermittent rain had turned into a downpour with strong winds, convincing us to forego any further exploration of Worms -- except for the quick purchase of a new Gluhwein mug to add to my rapidly growing collection.  The warm liquid was greatly appreciated!

 Following a warm lunch and dry clothes, we were refreshed and ready for a foray into Heidelberg.  Fortunately, the sun had come out and spirits were lifting.  Heidelberg is a romantic city dominated by the ruins of its extensive cathedral and known also for its university.  The castle has been only partially rebuilt since its destruction in the 17th and 18th century but it is still a very impressive site.




Having given up on the Christmas Markets in Worms due to the bad weather, we were delighted when the sun came out in Heidelberg giving us several delightful hours to explore 4 or 5 of them.  After the initial cup of gluhwein we found way too many booths to visit and much money was exchanged! 

But it's not just the unique crafts that make the markets special, it's the old-fashioned carousels, delicious aromas of bratwursts, Christmas cookies and other local foods, and the decorations.  This is a giant replica of the Christmas windmill I bought in Germany many years ago.

Once the sun sets, the markets become even more magical.  Here's a photo of the  castle and the giant windmill lit up at nights..

                                                            

Tonight we're leaving Germany and cruising to France with a wonderful day ahead in Strasbourg
Linda

Rhine Gorge and Rudesheim

I forgot to mention in yesterday's blog that we got to spend a whole day in Cologne instead of going on to Koblenz in the afternoon.. It seems that at least 8 huge British bombs from WWII had been discovered in the Rhine and one was close to he city of Koblenz.  All 40,000 people were evacuated yesterday while one of the bombs was dismantled. Probabl, a wise decision for us to forego that stop!

I was thrilled when today dawned clear and dry.  When I was here 5 years ago, the weather was freezing with high winds, rain and fog, Since there were so many scenic views as we passed through the gorge, good weather was definitely a blessing. Today it's just one charming site after another. Debbie filled us in on the history of each structure as we passed by, but it's too much detail for this blog. 

This was one of 2 castles that have not been destroyed at all and remain completely intact. 

Others did not enjoy such a fate.....

 My favorite were the ones at the top of the vineyards which spilled down to the villages below......
                                                                 


And this  a great segway into our afternoon excursion.  By 2:30 we had docked in Rudesheim and were ready to explore this UNESCO recognized area of Germany's Hessen Province in the Rhine Valley.  Steep slate mountains border both sides of the Rhine and are covered with vineyards famous for Riesling wines.

Since we are now in the midst of famous German wine country,we couldn't pass up the chance to have a winetasting with a local vintner.  All the vineyards are on the sides of the hills as evidenced in the photo above and what a lovely hike we had to the vineyard on this beautiful afternoon.  We tasted 3 of his Reislings which varied from very dry to a sweeter option.

Our hike definitely grew easier by the 3rd wine and we even saw Santa cruising overhead in the gondola!

After some fun shopping in the local markets and a quick trip back to the boat for dinner.  We returned to town to sample their famous Rudesheim Coffee.  This is their version of Irish Coffee but with their local Asbach Uralt Brandy.  We loved watching the cups ignite but even better was drinking this luscious beverage on a cold winter evening.

Once more it's late at night and tomorrow is a full day as we see Worms in the morning and Heidelberg in the afternoon so better close.
Linda

Eau de Cologne

Last night shortly before dinner, the cruise line offered to upgrade Gayle and me to a Jr. Suite if we were willing to move.  After about 15 seconds of serious deliberation, we began throwing clothes in the suitcase.  It was definitely worth the effort of  packing and unpacking again.  The extra space and the 2 huge French balconies were wonderful.  I had planned to sleep in today as we had a late departure this morning, but, when I awoke and saw the stars overhead, I knew I couldn't waste a beautiful morning by just sleeping!

About mid morning we arrived in Cologne, Germany. The photo of me dressed as "Nanook of the North" was taken as we neared the city with the famous cathedral in the background.  There was definitely a brisk wind blowing, but I was prepared!

 I read this  interesting tidbit about Cologne in AMA Waterway's daily bulletin. At the beginning of the 18th century, Italian expatriate Johann Maria Farina created a fragrance and named it after his new residence, Cologne.  Eau de Cologne (Water from Cologne) became a household term and has continued to be a common phrase over the centuries.  Incidentally, this fragrance is still produced, and is sold from this building near the cathedral.  Each evening we have a small gift on our bed, and today's was a  bottle of  Farina 471.  The name came from the number of this building.

We docked  and walked right into the city. Today was a beautiful winter morning -- cold but crystal blue sky.  First stop was the famous Cologne cathedral.   Begun in 1248, this is the largest cathedral in Northern Europe and the third tallest spire in the world.  It is truly an impressive Gothic structure, and  the stained glass windows were breathtaking as the bright sunlight streamed through them.

Shortly after noon our tour was finished and we began to explore the historic part of the city and it's numerous Christmas Markets.  I've seen many markets but none were lovelier today than the small, quaint ones we visited on this lovely day.  We explored them at a leisurely pace and only manage to get to 2 of them, but the first stop was for their 2011 mugs of Gluhwein.  For those of you who haven't followed me through previous markets, Let me explain that Gluhwein (hot mulled wine) is the traditional drink and each market designs their own mugs each year.  For about 1euro extra you can keep the mug, and I've acquired quite a collection.  It's also great way to meet the locals while standing around sipping the fragrant wine.  The couples sharing our table here were from Cologne and were getting married this Friday.  It was great fun visiting with them and sharing their excitement.

On their suggestion, we headed over to the Alter Market which was located in front of the narrow-gabled houses of the Old Town Hall.  It was so charming with it's half-timbered stalls and ice skating rink.  We found the food stall they had recommended and thoroughly enjoyed the Reibekuckens (similar to potato pancakes but much better!)  I asked them to add a side of ketchup and later was politely informed by two local ladies sharing our table that applesauce was the traditional accompaniment --nothing like looking like an American!  Needless to say I had to order another Gluhwein as the mugs in this market were different from the first market.

By now the sun was starting to set and we walked back to the boat along the banks of the Rhine. Leaving Cologne after dinner, I took these photos of the Hohenzollern  Bridge and the Cathedral, landmarks of this famous city.  The Rhine Gorge and Rudesheim are our destinations tomorrow.
 Linda                                          

Amsterdam and the Canals

Invigorated by a hearty breakfast and the crisp morning air, we departed for our Canal and City Tour.  There were several buses but we were designated the 'affectionate Red Group.'  Another guest said it had to do with the champagne reception last night???   I'm afraid we are already the notorious Texas group on the ship, but we are definitely having fun.

Although I had done the canal tour several years ago, there were scenes I didn't remember.  I had definitely not forgotten the Nemo Technology Museum.  I think you can figure out the reasoning behind the name.  A short distance later we entered the canals which were built centuries earlier to reclaim the swampy land from the sea.  There are 4 major canals connecting with numerous smaller ones.

The inner canal , the Singel was originally the city's boundary.  By the 1600's during the Golden Age, the city expanded to the Herengracht which held the widest homes with elaborate gables.  Most are much too large to be homes in this expensive part of the city and have been converted to offices.  The Kelsersgracht contained more middle-class homes but still lovely while the last main canal, the Prinsengracht held smaller homes and warehouses.  Again, the homes and their gables were much easier to see in the winter.

Since today was Sunday, there was very little bicycle traffic, but we passed numerous bicycle parking lots and this new building is actually a bicycle parking garage that holds 15,000 bikes!

When the canal ride ended, we boarded the Red Bus, and headed out of the city toward Utrecht where the AmaCello was waiting to  meet us.  The hour and a half drive took us through beautiful Dutch countryside.  I can't believe they are having a drought as green as the grass was in the fields.

We stopped for a photo op at one of the inhabited water windmills.  The purpose of these is to prevent flooding of the lowlands during heavy rains as opposed to the industrial mills that grind grain.

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Awaiting us as we boarded the ship were steaming glasses of  Gluhwein (hot mulled red wine) which I grew to love on previous Christmas Markets Cruises.  It tasted delicious, as usual.  Soon we were devouring another tasty meal and watching the countryside pass by. The photo is of Gayle, sipping her Gluhwein and watching the boats going down the canal.

We are on the Amsterdam Rhine Canal which was built to connect the port city of Amsterdam to the main shipping channel of the Rhine.  Cruising southeasterly from Utrecht, we will intersect the Lek branch of the Rhine at Wijk bij Duurstede and then continue on to Cologne, Germany, where we will dock in the morning.

This  view of one of the locks is from the forward lounge on the ship. It was a treat to have a leisurely afternoon watching life on the river pass by us.  About 5 this afternoon we'll gather in the lounge to decorate Christmas trees, sip more Gluhwein and hear about the origin of many Christmas traditions in this region.
 

More from Germany tomorrow.
Linda

Amsterdam

We arrived in Amsterdam about 8am local time after a very uneventful flight. One glass of wine and an Ambien and I slept 5 hours, waking fully refreshed as we landed. Fifteen of us boarded the transfer provided by AMA Waterways and drove into the city – a short 30-minute drive. The other 3 passengers had arrived earlier. The weather was less than desirable – actually pouring down rain, but that didn't deter our adventurous souls.  Mike Parish looks very happy to be here!

We boarded the ship, grabbed a quick cup of coffee, pulled out our gloves and boots and, with maps in hand, headed into the city. I had missed the Rijksmuseum the last time I was here so that topped my list of 'must-see sites.' Fortunately, Amsterdam has several wonderful museums to see on rainy days. It had been 40 years since I had seen the Rijksmuseum ( I was a mere child!) and was anxious to see the Old Masters in this famous museum. The works by Rembrandt, Vermeer, Jan Steen and others were still wonderful and several hours passed quickly before hunger pains surpassed my desire to see more works of art.

There is no such thing as a quick lunch in Europe unless you grab a hot dog from a street vendor and I was definitely in the mood for a hot bowl of soup. Found a cafe near the museum and had a delicious lunch. Two hours later, the rain had stopped and a lovely winter afternoon persuaded me to forego the nearby Van Gogh Museum and spend time walking in the city. I love Europe in the winter – not crowded and the beautiful old buildings are much more visible once the leaves have fallen..

Our cabins on the Amacello were ready when I returned to the ship, and I had time to unpack before dinner. Gayle (my roommate from Arkansas and long-time friend) and I were surprised by an invitation to dine at the Captain's Table. Prior to dinner everyone was invited to a champagne reception in the lounge where we met with the crew and had a briefing explaining our wonderful week ahead. The ship is beautifully decorated for Christmas which added to our already festive moods.

We all enjoyed the reception but none more than Kathy Farley.  Needless to say she was pleased to meet our chef, and in my opinion one of the most important crew members on the cruise!

Not only did Gayle and I dine with the captain but also with Steve,one of the AMA Waterways corporate members, who tantalized us with descriptions of the new Africa cruise the company is offering. Captain Hank, a native of The Netherlands, was born on a river boat (literally!) and has spent most of his life cruising these waters – I felt very comfortable with him at the helm. He was also a fun dinner companion!

I'm in the lounge by myself late tonight typing this post after a very long day but enjoying our pianist playing Christmas carols and viewing the lights of Amsterdam from the river where we are docked. I think, however, it is time to say good night after a wonderful first day in Amsterdam.

Linda

Australia to Amsterdam

When I returned from Australia several weeks ago, I decided to just wash the dirty clothes and start repacking as I would be leaving again soon.  Tomorrow morning I am taking 18 adventurous souls on a 12- day  Rhine Winter Voyage.  We'll cruise along the rivers and canals of Central Europe from Amsterdam to Basel, Switzerland, and then travel by land for 2 nights each in Lucerne and Zurich. 

River cruising has become very popular and is one of my favorite ways to see Europe.  The boats rarely hold more than 150 guests and are essentially a floating hotel taking passengers from one wonderful destination to another WITHOUT having to change hotels. 

Usually the ships dock right in the city center enabling passengers to go ashore and explore on their own or tour the city with a local guide.  I love the audio system that allows me to hear the guide's commentary and still lag several blocks behind to catch that perfect photo. 

Departing Amsterdam we will cruise through the Ams-Rhine Canal into the Rhine River toward Cologne, Germany, our next stop.  And from there to more destinations along the Rhine to Strasbourg, France, and finally to Basel, Switzerland. 

But enough about our itinerary, tonight I need to finish packing and be ready to leave for the Austin airport early in the morning.  Fog is forecasted, but I'm hoping it will dissipate by flight time.  We change planes in Houston and then fly nonstop to Amsterdam with an arrival Saturday morning.  I was in this lovely city in April 2010 when the tulips were in full bloom. Now, I'm looking forward to seeing it decked out for the holidays.


More from Amsterdam this weekend.
Linda