ARRIVAL IN RUSSIA

 Uneventful flights except for the last-minute rescue of my iPhone aboard a flight bound for Amsterdam!  Changing planes in Frankfurt is always challenging – I am convinced it’s the largest and most confusing airport I’ve ever encountered.

Despite these hiccups and with the help of an ambien-induced 4 or 5 hours of sleep, we arrived in St.

Petersburg in fairly good shape.  Our timing was good as the G20 Summit had ended that day and roads were now open for ordinary arrivals like our group.

I had time on the Frankfurt to St Petersburg flight to do a bit of research into the founding of the second-largest city in Russia.  Peter (later known as Peter the Great) ascended the throne in 1702 and began building Russia’s first port on the Baltic – a feat he accomplished in 11 years by using unnumbered serfs, prisoners of war and inmates.  Tens of thousands died in the process.  By his death in 1725, Peter had turned a backward nation into one of the most powerful on earth.

We were pretty tired and ready to settle in to our home for the next 10 nights.  A warm welcome awaited us.

After  a tasty meal an hot shower, we fell into bed.

A full day awaits us tomorrow as we explore St Petersburg.

Linda

Post Note:This blog was written on Sunday when we arrived, but I had to wait 2 days to get wifi service

RUSSIA -- LAND OF THE TSARS

Russia -- few countries bring up such vivid images and emotions! From the extravagant opulence of the tsars to the bitter poverty of the serfs.  From Peter the Great to the Bolsheviks and the fall of

communism, this vast land has such a fascinating history.

Tomorrow, fifteen of us will be flying to Russia to begin  our river cruise odyssey which begins with 3 days in St. Petersburg.  From there we cross Europe's two largest lakes, Onega and Ladoga, and cruise the Volga-Baltic Waterways with visits to the enchanting Golden Ring cities of Uglich and Yaroslavl and finally to Moscow, the culmination of our voyage.

This will be my 3rd trip to Russia, although, technically, the first trip in 1972 was to the Union of Soviet Socialist Republics. At that time we were stationed with the US Air Force in Ramstein, West Germany, and had the opportunity to join a tour to the USSR. This was the height of the Cold War and the nation was struggling to recover from the devastation of WWII, especially Leningrad (now St. Petersburg).

I returned again in 2004 on a Baltic cruise to visit St. Petersburg and found a beautiful city much different from the former Leningrad. I've never been to the cities along the Volga and am looking forward to

seeing these UNESCO World Heritage sites.

After 41 years I'm also anxious to see Moscow again. I still remember standing in awe, looking at St Basil's Cathedral and then the jewels in the Kremlin Museum.  The Crown Jewels of Britain pale in comparison.

Having been warned that internet service outside St. Petersburg and Moscow may be very limited, I'm not sure how prompt my postings will be completed, but hope to be able to share some of our experiences and impressions as we travel thru the 'land of the tsars.'
More from Russia in a few days,
Linda

Easter Island - Three Wonderful Days!

Our last day of exploration on Easter Island -- how did the time fly by so quickly!  I still have to pinch myself to believe I'm really on the most remote inhabited island on earth!

It's located 2500 miles from any inhabited land mass of more than 100 people.  Pitcairn Island (1289 miles to the west with less than 100 residents) is the closest neightbor! You can get some perspective of its location on the map to the right.  Easter Island is in the lower right-hand corner of the Polynesian triangle.

Most of  the moai we had seen the 2 previous days had been restored and placed in their original positions.  At Ahu Aka Hanga the statutes still lay where they had fallen when either pulled down by an opposing clan or knocked over by the tsunami in the 1960's.. 

We climbed around to the backside which faces the ocean and peered through a small crack in the lava rock exposing human bone fragments buried here centuries earlier.

Among Easter Island's most breathtaking sites is the moai-studded slopes of Rano Raraku, a volcano which provided the stone for the island's famous moai.

This was the quarry where the Rapa Nui carvers chiseled their huge statues and eventually freed them from the quarry to be transported across the island.  We could see many of these still standing, never having been totally detached from their quarry origins. Only about a quarter of the statues were installed, while nearly half remained in the quarry and the rest sit elsewhere, probably on their way to final locations.

Climbing  up  the side of the volcano, we had a beautiful view of the crater's fresh-water lake whose edges were lined with totora reeds.

Herds of wild horses roamed freely in the area.

After so much climbing I was ready for a rest under a nice shade tree.  Actually, Easter Island has only remnants remaining of the original lush tropical island.  Apparently, the original inhabitants focused most of their energy on the tremendous tasks of building the moai rather than preserving their native environment. Much of the natural resources were consumed and not replaced. Hmmm, sound familiar?

Our guide saved the "wow" factor  of the morning until just before lunch.

A short drive from the quarry is the island's most stunning and photographed asset -- Ahu Tongariki.  This is the island's largest platform (base upon which the moai sit) with its 15 moai. This impressive row shows the variety of pukao (top knots.)

Next on the agenda was definitely lunch.  Knowing we would venture quite a distance  from the hotel today, they had prepared a box lunch and we were ready to enjoy our picnic. 

Located on the northeastern shores of Rapa Nui, Playa Anakena is the islands only broad sandy beach and , with its tall palms and turquoise waters, is almost a caricature of a South Pacific paradise. According to Rapa Nui oral tradition, this was the site that chief Hotu Motu'a landed with the first Polynesian settlers

Lunch was fun although the skies suddenly turned dark and rain looked imminent, but the Sun god continued to watch over us and soon  sunny skies reappeared.  After eating we walked over to another platform containing moai with a variety of  pukao and even some tattoos on the back sides. Two of the moai  were badly damaged, but the remainder were in good condition.

Climbing back into our van we bounced (quite literally) over some roads that make Costa Rica's feel like expressways!  But the drive was worth the destination -- Ahu Te Pito Kura with one of the largest remaining platforms but no moai remained.  What was there was a rock sacred to the Rapa Nui people.  By rubbing it legend says you will be empowered with special spirits.  I tried but am still waiting to feel empowered!

Beautiful wild horses were on the land we walked back through and several had young colts.  Couldn't resist a photo. 

Apparently, the population of these horses is getting out of control and there are estimated to be more than 4500 on this small island.


Tomorrow my wonderful odyssey through Peru and Easter Island comes to a close.  It's been a fabulous experience,  incredibly good weather, great guides, lovely hotels, delicious food, pleasant traveling companions and the most fascination destinations in the world.  What more could I ask -- except to return one day!

A big thank you to Latour and LAN Airlines for providing me with this opportunity.
Linda

Easter Island - Mystery of the Moai

Someone in our group must have made a very substantial sacrifice to the Sun god when we landed on Easter Island as our beautiful weather is still holding. The high in the afternoon was probably low 70's and very pleasant.

Our guide on Easter Island is a delightful young man who was born and raised in Rapa Nui (the local name for Easter Island). Ata's parents were archeologists in Chile and came to Rapa Nui on a temporary assignment and never left! Not only is Ata very knowledgeable about the island but he is also a very cute young man!

Our first stop was at Ana Kai Tangata (Ana means cave) which is a lava  tube connecting the crater we saw yesterday. 

After a steep climb down to the coastal cavern, we had a breathtaking view of waves breaking at the entrance.  Featured inside the cavern were rock art paintings.  Legend has it that cannibalism may have been practiced here, but there is no actual proof.

Climbing down the side of the cliff on some very steep steps, we entered a cave and were rewarded with this incredible view as the waves crashed a short distance in front of the entrance. This was actually part of a lava tube created when one of the island's volcanoes erupted many years earlier.

From here Ata took us back to Rano Kau, the water-filled crater we had viewed yesterday from a different side

The panorama view from the top is probably the island's most striking natural sight

As we hiked back down the side we passed Orongo, a ceremonial village which had been a complex of 53 houses linked to the island's Birdman sect. This sect had replaced the original culture of ancestor worship.

Conflict between various clans on the island began the decline of the irriginal cultures. One faction would topple the other's moai during the fighting and the other would retaliate.. They finally disappeared with the slave raids in the 1860's and the arrival of Christian missionaries.

By now pangs of hunger were descending upon the group and we drove back to our hotel for another delicious lunch and Chilean Savignon Blanc wine.  True to South American traditions lunch is not a 'fast food' affair.  Several hours later we hit the road again. 

One quick photo, however, before we departed for our afternoon adventures.

Note the solar and wind-powered lights in this photo. These line the perimeter of the resort.

Back to our exploration of the moai on Easter Island. 

The structures initially had 'top knots' representing the way the male inhabitants tied their hair on top of their heads  This red stone came from the Puna Pao quarry.  The front of the structures were carved at the quarry leaving only a 'keel' to attach to the quarry. 

Slowly the moai were raised to a standing position using rock ramps and were then moved as far as 22 km by rolling them on eucalyptis logs.

With our knowledge of the moai increasing, we headed for our next 'wow' siting.

Arriving at the Ahu Akivi site we saw 7 standing moai which were one of the few inland ahu(stone platforms) facing the sea.  Most face inland 

These had been restored to their standing positions in 1960.  Virtually any standing moai have been restored as time, conflict and, especially, tsunami have knocked them down.

Our last item on today's agenda was another lava tube created from the Rano Kau crater we had seen yesterday and again this morning.  Climbing through the tube was optional and halfway through I was beginning to think I had made a mistake.  Climbing through a pitch dark cavern with low ceilings and rocky flooring with only the light of 1 cell phone and a small flashlight was not my idea of a leisurely walk but we only survived ( I only banged my head once on a sharp rock!)  For all my complaining, it was a fun adventure.

At this point we were all tired and ready to head back to the resort for Happy Hour,  looking out on the ocean as the sun set and sipping Pisco Sours!

Another boring? day in Paradise!
Linda
 

Easter Island - Most Remote Inhabited Island in the World

Our flight from Lima to Easter Island was wonderful – of course, it didn't hurt to be flying Premium Business! Ohhhh, those 'lie flat' beds are so comfortable. I am going to have a hard time returning to the “back of the bus!” Thank you, LAN, for the upgrade.

There are many unusual features about Easter Island, but one that I noticed immediately when we landed was that at 7am it was still pitch black, and , even though they are located in the exact middle of the Pacific Ocean, they are on the same time zone as Austin!! And sunset isn't until about 8:15pm at the end of October.  The photos was taken at the airport as I received a lei welcome.

Bare with me while I fill you in on a few details regarding this mysterious island. Although 2500 miles  west of Chile and about 3000 miles east of Tahiti, it is politically linked to Chile but much more Polynesian than the rest of South America.   It is believed that the original inhabitants arrived from Polynesia somewhere 900 BC to 1000 AD; however, as with most questionss regarding Easter Island;  there are no definite answers.. One fact is known for sure -- everyone recognizes the moai as the unique statues of Easter Island.

The first permanent settlements were established in the mid-18^th century and the Chilean government established their authority over the island in the early 19^th century.

Our hotel, the Hanga Roa  has just completed a major restoration giving it a lovely polynesian flare with beautiful ocean views from the rooms and lovely amenities..

 Full board (3meals/day with wine) is included and, much to my surprise, the food is truly gourmet. Especially delicious is the fresh fish caught locally. 

After lunch we went on a small tour of nearby Rapa Nui, the major town (and I use the term loosely) on the island and drove over to Rano Kau, a water-filled volcanic crate and one of the most unforgettable sights on the island.  

Descending into the crater is no longer permitted, but we walked around the top and took numerous photos of the beautiful views from the rim.  Local women used to walk down into the crater to wash clothes and then walk back out with their wet clothes!  And we complain about having to take clothes out of the washer and dryer!!

Our other stop on this short introduction to the island was the Ahu Tahai located within walking distance of our hotel. It is actually a complex of three ahus (stone platforms).  This photo shows the one with a restored topknot and ceramic eyes.   

The ceramic eyes were added due to a request from the brutal Chilean dictator Pinochet when he visited the island.  They were not part of the original moai.

We were beginning to dwindle by this time and ready for the promised Happy Hour at our hotel.  

Heading straight to the deck of the hotel, we sipped Pisco Sours and toasted the sunset and a wonderful first day on Easter Island!

More tomorrow from Easter Island!

Linda

Lima - The City of Kings

We arrived late and were a bit tired but were quickly refreshed when we finally arrived at our hotel, , the Miraflores Park.  This is an elegant small hotel in the center of the fashionable Miraflores district of Lima.

From my spacious room, I have a beautiful view of the ocean and the park across the street. What a special treat it was to have a morning free from any activities.

The afternoon's agenda was an excellent tour of the city with some unique sites   First stop was Lover's Park -- source of named was immediately evident.  Not only the statute to the right but mosaics lining the walk depicted the theme vividly.

Leaving the lovely Miraflores neighborhood we drove on to the San Isidro area.  Here the homes were luxurious and a million USD and upl.  Security was a necessity and included wired fences and video surveillance. We passed one embassy after another, including the US with its huge grounds. Another interesting site were extensive remains of mud brick pyramids. Only in a climate as dry as Lima's would these have remained for so many years (Lima gets about 10in. rain/per year).

Now we were heading into the city center with beautiful examples of colonial architecture, especially the balconies.Getting out of the bus at the Plaza Bolivar for a “bano break.,” we walked into an elegant colonial home and were directed to the bano. It seemed as though we were guests in a wealthy Lima citizen's home – and I found out we were!!

The owner of the home, Juan Aliaga, is a part owner of Latour (sponsor of our fam) and opens his home to small groups. His ancester Jeronimo del Aliaga was the right-hand man of the founder of Francisco Pizarro founder of the city of Lima.

He gave the plot of land that lay over an Inca temple to Jeronimo in gratitude and this home has been in the Aliaga family ever since.

 The current matriarch of the family is 101 years old and still lives the 50-room house with numerous family members. What a treat it was to leisurely stroll through the home and see their lovely photos and antiquities!



Next stop - Plaza de Armas,government headquarters since 1535. Surrounding the plaza was the Presidential Palace, the Archbishop's Palace and a stunning bronze fountain in the city. We grabbed a quick “to-go-coffee” (not quite Starbuck's level) to revive us and headed to our final stop as dusk rapidly approach.


The Church and Convent of San Francisco, built in 1674 is a UNESCO World Heritage site and one of the city's most famous sites. As we descended the steps to the catacombs beneath the church, we could heard the familiar strains of the Wedding Processional. A wedding had just begun above us! In the catacombs the bones of more than 25,000 people are laid out in bizarre but orderly designs.

The evening ended with a visit to the Larco Herrera Museum. I had first toured this museum in 2005 and was stunned by its more than 45,000 pieces of pre-Columbian artifacts and is considered one of the best in the world. Today the museum is even more impressive due to a total renovation several years ago. In a separate area there is an interesting collection of very erotic ceramics – definitely not G-rated.


This wonderful day ended with a delicious meal at the museum's restaurant. And the meal started with a Pisco Sour, my new favorite drink. Had been told the best ones are made in Peru and I am now convinced. I think this will be a perfect way for my clients to end their stay in Peru before heading to the airport for their overnight flight to the US.
Catching a 1:20am LAN flight to Easter Island!
Linda

Sacred Valley of the Incas

The Sun god must REALLY be pleased with us as today is even more beautiful than yesterday. The photo is of the courtyard the hotel's dining room faces. It's easy to picture what the monastery looked like when it was first built in the 1500's. I had gotten up early to make sure I had time for a substantial breakfast and have my suitcase out in the hall by 8am. I was impressed with my efficiency as I wheeled my bag out in the hall only to realize I had locked myself out! Fifteen minutes later I was back in my room and behind schedule which is much more typical of my traveling days!

This morning we were headed for a different area of the Sacred Valley than yesterday's trip to Machu Picchu.

Evidence of the Inca Empire could be seen frequently as the sides of the mountains had many regions covered in the now-familiar agricultural steppes. 

There is not a lot of flat farm land so modern inhabitants of the Valley follow many of the same practices as their Inca ancestors and utilize every available acre.

Our first stop was at the Awana Kancha Camelid Reserve.  Camelids are gentle, long-necked animals and include llamas and alpacas and wild vicunas and guanacos ,  The llamas and alpacas are the best known and their beautiful fleeces are coveted world wide. 

They are hardy survivors of the high-altitude environment of the Andean plateaus.
 
With their large soft eyes and gentile behavior these cousins of the humped-back camel can also display less than pleasant behavior. 

Ask the poor girl in our group who was just walking past one of these gentle llamas and managed to get in the line of his projective spitting. 

She was desperately lookong for a bucket of water to douse her head in!!

Besides seeing the different types of animals I enjoyed watching local women demonstrate the ancient Inca weaving techniques that have been handed down from generation to generation. 

Not only do they teach these beautiful methods but also show how the alpaca wool is dyed and spun into threads used in numerous clothing articles such as shawls, sweaters, hats, gloves, etc. 

I would have longed to linger in the store as the women had some truly beautiful items for sale, but I was saved that expense as our time was up and we were headed to the Pisac Market for more shopping experiences.

More winding roads through this beautiful terrain brought us to the town of Pisac known for its market and ruins. 

Unfortunately, the area around the main plaza was under construction causing the market to be more in a much less interesting location. 

 I wasn't nearly as impressed as I'd been 10 yrs ago and wound up with no purchases but a cute photo of a little girl and her baby llama.

Stomachs were beginning to growl indicating it was time to return to Cusco for lunch.  

Again, everywhere I looked the scenery was like something out of National Geographic.  Easy to understand why the Incas worshiped this region.

Lunch was in a special restaurant right on the Plaza de Armas and was gourmet category.  Peru is truly becoming known as a culinary destination. 

 I managed to shoot a few photos of the Cathedral and Plaza before we headed to the airport for our flight to Lima.

More tomorrow from Lima before we fly out at midnight for Easter Island!

Linda