Sunday, May 31, 2009

Adelaide - Austin's Sister City
















I awoke this morning to a beautiful view of the sun rising over Austin's Sister City - Adelaide. My goal today was to find out about this long-distance relationship we have. Fortunately, we didn't leave the Hyatt until 9am so I started researching the topic and found lots of info.


"Adelaide is surrounded by hills and enjoys a Mediterranean climate and ranks as one of Australia's most attractive cities..." Another major connection is that both cities are centers for the visual and performing arts and have a love of sports. Adelaide groups have visited Austin to study the high-tech industry and various Adelaide musicians have performed in Austin. The major connection I think is the fact that both cities have a very laid-back environment. A perfect example was dinner last night which was at the Good Life Mordern Organic Pizza Restaurant. Great fun and delicious pizza -- exactly what I would expect in Austin.


A special treat for us today was going to an Australian Rules Football game. One of Australia's most popular sports, the game is a combination of soccer and our football. Before we got to the stadium, our host, Southern World Australia, gave us the traditional scarves, gold, red and blude to wear to the game. The ball is like our football, but the rules are definitely different. From my limited observations, it appeared that the ball is advanced toward the goal by kicking, bouncing and throwing. This was an important game and the stadium was sold out as the Adelaide Crows were playing the reigning champions, the Hawthorn Hawks from Melbourne. Their fans wore gold and brown scarves which I didn't think were nearly as attractive as ours. With our support the underdog Crows triumphed over the Hawks. The photo is of me as we entered the stadium. Naturally, food accomnied the event, and we enjoyed delicious Aussie meat pies.
Backing up a bit, we started the day with breakfast on The Ghan, one of Australia's famous trains that travels from Darwin in the very north to Adelaide on the southern coast. Besides a delcious breakfast in the Queen of Adelaide car, we got to view the other parts of the train including the Prince of Wales car. Included on my "Bucket List" is a trip on The Ghan.
After the game we boarded a small charter plane to fly to nearby Kangaroo Island. The island isn't on the map you can see, but it is just south of Adelaide and is the 3rd largest island in Australia. We are spending the next 2 nights at the Southern Ocean Lodge and it is fabulous but more about that tomorrow. The photo of me was taken on the coast of Kangaroo Island.


From Kangaroo Island...


Linda

Saturday, May 30, 2009

Aborigines - Ancient times to the present





























Having said good by to a few of the local kangaroos waiting to see us off, we headed south with Adelaide as our final destination today. First stop was Arkaroo Rock where ancient Aboriginal paintings dating back 30, 000 years were found a few years ago. The weather was crisp (about 50 degrees) and clear, perfect for a hike. We climbed to about 2500 ft. over red sandstone rocks passing occasional kangaroos who blithely hopped away as we huffed and puffed our way up the rough path. The climb, however, was definitely worth our efforts. When we reached the overhang there were ancient ochre and charcoal images depicting the creation of the Wilpena Pound which we'd flown over yesterday.

I love Australia and Aussies for many reasons and one is the fact that they never go very long without an excuse for eating. In less than an hour after leaving Arkaroo Rock, we pulled off the road and drove to the Kanyaka homestead ruins for a native bush morning tea with scones. The homestead was once a huge sheep station in the pioneering days of the 1800's. The photo is one of me standing in front of one of the remaining structures.

As we left the ruins, the scenery changed to vast expanses of scrub brush flat lands, reminiscent of The Thornbirds. Hayden, our Aboriginal guide since landing in Adelaide, was passionate about his culture and arranged a stop for us to meet his Auntie Clara. What an enlightening and delightful experience this was for our group. In 1934 Auntie Clara at age 6 became one of the Stolen Children. Beginning in the 1920's the Australian government felt it would be beneficial for Aboriginal children to be taken permanently from their parents. The goal was to erase any connection they might have with their native culture and be raised in the missionary culture instead . Auntie Clara was delightful and her story was very moving as she never saw her mother again. Amazingly, she had no bitterness. Having become a kindergarten teacher, she eventually reconnected with her relatives and related her story to us in the photo.

By now we had gone almost 2 hours without food so it was time for lunch We stopped in Melrose, the oldest town in the Flinders Ranges and nestled at the base of Mt. Remarkable. It was a center for copper mining when the mineral was discovered in the 1840's.

The remainder of the afternoon was spent driving to Adelaide where we are spending the night.
Tomorrow will be a busy – and fun day – as we have breakfast on the famous Ghan train and then go to an Aussie football game before flying to Kangaroo Island.

From Adelaide, Austin's Sister City....
Linda

Friday, May 29, 2009

Outback in the Flinders Ranges













What a glorious day!! It began with a 4WD tour traversing mountain ranges, continued with a scenic flight over Wilpena Pound and concluded with a walk through the Old Wilpena Station just before sunset.

The road (and I use the term loosely) makes the roads in Costa Rica seem like the Loop 1 Toll Road in Austin. I can't recall driving over such difficult mountain terrain with no guardrails, but the views were absolutely breathtaking and well worth the bodily stress! We spent the entire 4 hours on a huge working sheep station that afforded magnificent views of Wilpena Pound and the Elder Ranges which are part of the Flinders Ranges of South Australia. The term “Pound” is an old term to describe a cup-like structure and Wilpena means “closed fingers.” Picture your two hands cupped together with fingers bent to hold or catch something. Red gum eucalyptis trees can be found in areas containing rivers or underground streams while other areas were covered in scrub grass and bushes. Vivid colors shown in the strata of the rocks.

Following a very quick lunch back at the resort, we drove to the nearby airfield – simply a dirt runway with a shack for the office. I now understand why the only way to truly see the Pound is by air. We flew in 2-6 and 4-seater Cesna aircraft. The afternoon was bright and sunny and the views incredible. I took a lot of photos ln the 30-minute flight as we crossed back and forth over the Pound and then through the surrounding valleys and got a few good shots.

Again, no rest for the weary. By the time we got back from the flights, it was time to depart for a 2-hour walk through the old Wilpena Station. What a living history of the original settlers who arrived in 1856 and described the area as “the prettiest place in the Far North.” The area still contained many of the huge old gnarled red gum trees that are the true representation of the Australian Outback. I felt as though I was on a movie set as I walked through the old Homestead, seeing original buildings and sensing what life must have been like for these sturdy pioneers. We weren't alone as numerous kangaroos stared curiously at us along with a few emus and wedge-tailed eagles soared overhead. The photo is of a mama 'roo' with her joey(baby).

Time hasn't permitted me to go into detail about the history of the Aborigines in Australia, but, needless to say, the life of these native people was drastically altered with the arrival of the Europeans. Two years ago on April 28th 2007, an Ikara sculpture was dedicated to celebrate the 40th anniversary of the 1967 Referendum that gave Aboriginal people full citizenship rights. The 2 dominant forms represent 2 akurras (Dreamtime serpents) – a fluid shape representing the Adnyamathanha (Aboriginal ) approach to the land and the flat-topped bench-like structure depictive of the European approach to living on the land.

I could have spent much longer in this beautiful peaceful setting, but darkness was rapidly descending. Tomorrow we leave Wilpena Pound and head back to Adelaide but on the way do more hiking in this amazing country.

More adventures tomorrow from the Australian Outback and Austin's sister city, Adelaide.
Linda

Thursday, May 28, 2009

South Australia wine country



Had a great night's sleep. No wonder, since I was absolutely exhausted by day's end yesterday and almost fell asleep at the elegant welcome dinner hosted by The Four Seasons. I managed to stay awake long enough to appreciate the beautiful view from our room at night – the Harbour Bridge was lit as was the Opera House, but the latter is having a very special display for the next few weeks with the shells lit in vivid designs that change colors every few minutes.

The morning dawned bright and sunny as we boarded another Qantas flight, this time to Adelaide in the state of South Australia. I love Qantas; even on a brief flight of less than 2 hours passengers are served a light meal – US carriers take notice! There is a 30-minute time zone difference between Sydney and Adelaide. Don't ask me why -- Aussies just have their own way doing things.

Arriving in Adelaide, we boarded a 20-seater coach and headed north to the Claire Valley. The landscape changed to flat farmland as we left the city. Known as the Adelaide Plains, the major crops are wheat and other grains. After a hour we turned east, and again the terrain changed to rolling hills covered with vineyards. Since it is late autumn in Australia, the harvest had ended and the leaves on the vines were beautiful golds and reds. The Claire Valley has numerous historic townships but is best known in the US for their wonderful wines, especially the light and fruity rieslings. Arriving at the Skillogalee Winery we enjoyed a delicious lunch and and some of their wines. Australian riesling grapes are harvested earlier than the German ones which have a sweeter taste. The Skillogalee name can be traced to the original settlers who survived the early years only by making a "skillogalee" --a sort of thin porridge, probably from grass seeds and water. The word is Celtic in origin and was a dish commonly fed to prisoners in Ireland at this time.
Back on the road we were soon in the Australian Outback. This describes any region in Australia more than 300 miles from a city and includes most of the continent. Since the season is almost winter, the sun began to set and the horizon was enormous. I don't think I've ever seen such vast expanse as a sunset in the Outback. Suddenly our driver hit the brakes as a kangaroo hopped across the road. Several more crossed our path before we reached out destination -- Wilpena Pound Resort where we will stay for 2 nights. What a change from the Four Seasons! We are in the Flinders Ranges National Park and the resort is reminiscent of US National Park Lodges. The temperature dropped as night fell and the roaring fire in the fireplace felt wonderful --as did a good meal and glass of riesling.
More from the Outback tomorrow as we go exploring.
Linda

Wednesday, May 27, 2009

Sydney-- City of Arts and Architecture


Famous for its Opera House and Harbour Bridge, Sydney is one of the most beautiful cities in the world. I enjoy ranking various sites and in the category of most beautiful harbours, Sydney is right up there with Rio and Hong Kong.

We landed on time at 6am Wednesday morning. I must have slept too long as I only got to watch 2 movies. Clearing customs would have been fast, but I decided to keep my peanut butter crackers and wound up having to stand in 2 lines before they were approved for entry into the country. The woes of being a "foodie."

Leaving the airport, we had a leisurely drive as the sun rose over the city. With a brief stop at Bondi Beach for coffee to give us a caffeine jolt, we continued on to Watson Bay where we boarded a boat for a Harbour Cruise. As we cruised past the famous landmarks, I thought about the changes that had occurred since the British First Fleet landed in 1788 with their human freight of convicts, soldiers and officers sent from England to forge a new British colony. Our Qantas flight in Premium Economy class was definitely an improvement over 2 months in steerage class!

Landing at Circular Quay right beside the Harbour Bridge, we were treated to a lovely lunch at the Park Harbour Hyatt. I remember staying there several years ago and loved the view of the Bridge and Opera House from my room. Lunch was lovely, but the Australian wines didn't help our energy level. From there we went to The Observatory Hotel where I had also stayed and were treated to desserts and coffee -- more caffeine to balance the wine and keep us going. I slipped out a little early to check into the Four Seasons and run down the street to buy a new camera. Mine breathed its last as we crossed the International Dateline.

It's been a wonderful day, and my only regret is that I don't have more time to savour this beautiful city. We leave in an hour for a cocktail reception at the Intercontinental and then back to the Four Seasons for a welcome dinner.

Tomorrow is an early day as we bid adieu to the Four Seasons at 5:45am to catch a flight to Adelaide. So much to see and don't won't to waste precious time on sleep!

More to follow from South Australia as we head to the Outback!

Linda

Monday, May 25, 2009

Australia -- Just 1 more movie than Europe!

I am leaving this afternoon(Memorial Day) on a nonstop flight from Austin to Los Angeles. If all goes well, I'll have a brief layover and then join other Aussie Specialists on a Virtuoso Educational trip to Australia.

Since this is my fourth trip to Australia, I have a "tried and true" routine that makes the flight enjoyable. As the title implies, rather than being a very long flight, it's only one more movie than Europe! Qantas is a great airline and with far more movie selections than time allows (new releases, classics, family themes and even a category for movies about Australia) , the hours pass quickly. After a glass of delightful Australian wine and a tasty dinner, I watch a couple of movies, take an Ambien and sleep 6-7 hours.

Upon awakening, I will eat breakfast and have time for one more movie(hence the title.) Soon Sydney's beautiful harbour and Opera House come into view as we descend into the airport. It's now Wednesday as we have crossed the International Date Line. I'll will never have a May 26th but will have two June 4th's when I return.

Virtuoso and South Australia Tourism has put together a wonderful 8-day trip with 1 night in Sydney, 5 in South Australia and 2 in Melbourne. It's a non-stop itinerary and has a warning in our packet that "due to the vigorous pace of this Educational and the amount of walking and other physical activity involved, it is recommended that all participants be in good health and physical condition.

After looking at the itinerary (and it is wonderful), I have visions of my collapsed body on the beach on Kangaroo Island with a kangaroo staring at me and a MedJet evacuation tag on my toe!
More from Sydney on Wednesday.

Linda

Friday, May 8, 2009

Amsterdam and the Keukenhof Gardens



Today is our last day in The Netherlands, but it was a wonderful day. First of all, the weather was absolutely perfect which was really important today as we were outside all day long.
As I mentioned yesterday, I had been looking forward to the Keukenhof Gardens from the first time I heard about the cruise. Located about 45 minutes from Amsterdam, these gardens were begun in 1949 and attract almost a million visitors each year. It's impossible to portray the beauty of the gardens in words, but the picture is a start. We had 3 hours there and Tana and I were once again late to the bus. We couldn't stop taking photos.
Most of the passengers will have not leave until Monday, but Tana and I are flying home tomorrow. Realizing our time in Amsterdam would be limited to this afternoon, I had asked our Cruise Director to arrange a local guide to take us on a 3-hr walking tour of the city. Fortunately a guide he recommended was available. So, after a very quick lunch, five of us took off with Norbert to explore this fascinating city. I can't even imagine how far we walked along canals, over bridges, through courtyards and squares, but it was delightful. With the weather so beautiful most of the city was also out. We stopped for a drink of "local beverages" at an outdoor cafe in the Rembrandt Plein (square). It was quite an experience as there were about 10 guys from Ireland next to us having a Bachelor Party. We were about 2 blocks away at the Flower Market when I realized I'd left my backpack at our table. I raced back to the cafe, and was in luck -- a Brit who had taken our photo was holding my pack!
Tonight is the Captain's Farewell party and it's going to be sad to leave. We've had wonderful experiences, eaten delicious food and made many new friends. Once again, I highly recommend river cruising and Tauck is perfection!
Signing off from Amsterdam...
Linda