The Circle of Life

I had not planned to send out this last post as I felt the Lion Pride and Elephant adventure would be the ultimate of our experiences, but our drive last night and this morning provided more spectular events. I'll be brief as we leave for the Sabi airstrip soon and will then have about 2 hrs in a day room at the Johannesburg Airport InterContinental before flying out tonight. I'll be posting this from the there.

It seems that the most intriguing events always happen toward the end of our drives. After another wonderful "Sundowner", the sun had set and darkness set in. Our tracker noticed the tracks of the same female leopard we had seen on the morning drive. She had 2 young cubs about 3 months old hidden nearby and was stalking a potential prey. We watched her wait patiently for the chance to attack an impala who had foolishly strayed from the herd. Impalas alone are no match for a leopard but are secure within the herd. He caught her scent and leaped away to safety. That ended her chances for breakfast.

To continue, last night we located the same female as she stalked another prey. Suddenly she crouched and then in a split second lunged through the air. We heard a brief scream and then silence. She had grabbed a rabbit by the throat and instantly strangled him. The only consolation for the prey was that he died an instant death. We watched her carry the rabitt back to the cubs, but we didn't follow long as we didn't want any hyenas to catch our scent and find the cubs. My photo is mom carrying dinner home, but all you can see is the rabbit's ears as she never turned around. It's a little fuzzy but remember it was pitch dark except for an incredible starlit sky.

Final sighting: We drove for about an hour and a half this morning without seeing very many animals. The leopard mom had moved the cubs. The first good sighting was a huge bull elephant about 10 ft. from the Rover devouring a small tree. It's just incredible to see these creatures so close in their natural environment.

BUT, the crowning experience which completed The Circle of Life for us during our stay in Africa was coming upon a white rhino with her 1-month old cub. This was the most precious site and truly made me appreciate the wonder of nature from birth to death and the protectiveness these animals have for their young.

Coming to Africa is a life-changing experience. I'll be leaving shortly but will always carry a love of this beautiful country and its wildlife with me and hope to return someday!
Linda

A Pride of Lions and an Elephant Intruder!

Again, yesterday started out with a beautiful morning safari drive beginning with the spotting of a hyena family. Mom was asleep beside a burrow in a huge termite mound when 2 sleepy adorable pups (yes, hyena pups are really cute) crept cautiously out of the burrow. Dad soon arrived to make the picture complete.

From there we actually got out of the rover and walked through the bushveld (Afrikaneer for field in the bush) toward 2 stately but shy giraffes. Different experience to walk through a field behind someone carrying a powerful rifle. Rangers never leave their Rovers without a rifle -- this is not the zoo! From there we were back in the rover and headed for a spotting of a group of about 5 lions and 2 cubs sleeping under a shade tree. The cubs were busy nursing while mom slept.

Leaving Singita Ebony Lodge we drove over a VERY bumpy road to our new home for 2 nights -- Sabi Sabi Earth Lodge. This new property is a very different but equally deluxe. Contemporary in style and totally designed to reflect the surroundings. Another plunge pool looking out onto the grassy bushveld.I managed about 10 min. in it!

For several hours our afternoon drive was peaceful with sightings of wildebeast, rhino, warthogs and huge bull elephants walking right beside the Rovers. One of the most fascinating things about this game reserve is the trust the animals have in the rangers and vehicles. This has taken many years to develop and enables us to get much closer to the animals than in other areas of Africa.

"Sundowner'' (happy hour on safari) was fun as we watched another beautiful sunset and sipped wine. From here our ranger said we would have a surprise. We drove and drove as the weather got colder -- now in the 40's and the dirt roads very bumpy as I was again in the "balcony'' of the rover. Suddenly, the ranger signeled for quiet and the most incredible sight appeared -- a pride (herd) of 14 young male and female lions calmly walked past our rover. If I'd stretched my arm out (which I definitely did not!) I could have touched them. Apparently, they were on the hunt for probably Cape Buffalo for dinner.They just looked at us as though we were a shrub in the bush. I have never seen anything like it! My photo does not do this spectacular event justice due to the darkness, but, perhaps, you can get some idea of what we were experiencing.

Arriving at camp we were bubbling over with excitement about the sighting. Once the sun sets we are never to walk to our rooms (spread out over the resort) without a porter since there are no fences around the resort to keep the animals out. I was about to learn firsthand the importance of this rule. As we were walking down the dark path guided by his flashlight, all of the sudden the porter leading the couple a few feet ahead of us, yelled "Get back, get back!" and our porter shoved us into toward the nearest room. About 20 ft. in front of us and completely blocking the path with his bulk, was a huge bull elephant weighing approximately 5 tons! He totally ignored the porter's clapping (supposed to drive them off), but, Brett, our ranger, calmly approached the elephant and kept commanding, "Get back, boy, get back!" Finally, he turned and walked up the hill. Brett could tell by the elephant's demeanor that he was 'ïn musth looking for a rut." In polite language, hIs testerone levels were very high and he was looking for a fight. Elephants are usually docile and won't charge, EXCEPT when they are in this mood. I decided this must be elephant PMS (Pre-Musth Syndrome!)Needless to say, it was several minutes before we quit shaking, but now I know I have truly been in theAfrican Bush!

Linda

Two Culinary Delights

I keep thinking Africa can't get any better and, yet, it does! This afternoon's drive started out in the same way our others had. The weather and the sky were perfect. Many varieties of birds flew in and out of the trees, monkeys signeled our arrival and we passed a herd of elephants who had just come out of the Sand River below the lodge. Watching them walk down the river as we had lunch was great entertainment. Now their bodies were still wet up to the water level of the river.
Mark and Timba, our tracker, saw signs that several hippos would be in the water hole a short distance away. Sure enough, when we got there, three of them were enjoying the water. Apparently, hippos cannot survive for long out of the water as they suffer severe dehydration. They spend all day in the water and only come out at night. They were really funny looking critters.
The next item on the agenda was African buffaloes and Mark started toward an area indicated by tracks Timba had seen. Suddenly, Mark stopped the Ranger when Timba signeled to him. Mark had told us earlier in the day that a female leopard had killed an impala and after a satiating meal last night, her cubs were finishing off the rest. Timba had spotted Mom in a tree so Mark immediately turned off the path and took the Ranger crashing through the brush toward the tree. We couldn't believe our eyes – not only was Mom in the tree, but her 1-year old male cub was happily feasting on the carcas of the impala she had killed the night before. Her other cub was playing nearby under the watchfull gaze of Mom. We were beside ourselves with excitement because this type of situation is extremely rare to be able to view. I took so many photos that my arm began to ache. The sun was beginning to set when Mom gracefully slid down the tree and went looking for her other offspring. By now it was almost dark so we turned the Rover back to the road. A later group said a lion came up and was finishing off the impala which was another reason Mom had taken her cubs away. Lions top a leopard in the predator category!
Ecstatic about our find we had forgotten the African buffalo, but pretty soon a huge herd of them crossed the road in front of us They are different from American buffalo as well as the Asian variety. Body build is similar but the horns are much more compact. They are still awesome creatures and not to be messed with. It still amazes me how no matter how much noise the Range Rover makes getting close to the game they don't seem to care as long as we stay seated.

The drive was not over, however, as we spotted a graceful young giraffe on the way back, but it was too dark for good photos.

Mark had begun describing the stars again when he asked if we'd like to stop by the airstrip on the way to the lodge to see the large telescope located there. Everyone agreed to the suggestion and we headed back to the airstrip. As we got close to the airfield, we noticed it was all lit up which was unusual for a tiny airstrip. When we stopped, we found out it was a surprise Tasting Dinner for us. The Lodge had decorated the whole area with Tiki torches, luminaries, outdoor heaters and a big fire. We had such a fun 5-course tasting with coordinating wines. Thus, the 2nd culinary event of the evening!

The evening culminated with the GumBoot dancers. This was a group of African men from the nearby village who did incredible tap dancing. Apparently, the miners years ago came from different regions, and, to avoid their forming an organization, the mine owners forbid them to communicate verbally. The men found a way inspite of this order – they began tapping as a form of communication and the result was wonderful tap dancing with their big rubber boots that were worn in mines.

Hopefully you figured out, the topic of this blog – Two Culinary Delights – the leopards and ours. If I have gained nothing else from my incredible stay in Africa, it is an appreciation of “The Circle of Life”. Watching the leopards tonight was the epitomy of nature fulfilling that cycle.
We leave tomorrow for Sabi Sabi, another game park south of Singita.

I have learned that there is no way to predict or guarantee what the game drives will hold – and I guess that could also be said of life.
Hope to be able to send out a last report on our adventures before returning home. It all depends on internet access.
Linda

Singita - Leopards and Rhinos

Up at 5 am, grabbed a quick bite to eat and off for more adventures today. Early mornings and evenings get pretty cool, probably low 50's and with the breeze in the open air Rovers we know to bundle up. The Lodge provides us with wonderful wool ponchos that feel great.

Soon the sun is coming up over the African horizon and the sky turns pink -- absolutely beathtaking! We drive for awhile and see a few of the animals we had seen yesterday, impalas, kudus and one elephant. Soon our tracker signals the Mark to turn off the dirt road. You can't belief what rough terrain these Rovers can go through, knocking down small trees and bushes, crossing over large fallen trees and deep gullies in the bush. He has heard a sound that sounds like a leopard and the monkeys overhead in the trees are also giving signals that he can interpret as leopard warnings. We stopped under a tall tree that had a monkey who immediately dropped a "present" about 12 in. from my head. Guess this is sign of a lucky day since he missed me.

It takes us awhile and some pretty rough driving, but, all of a sudden we see a beautiful male leopard sleeping in the grass. It was a bit hard to get a full picture as the brush kept hiding his head, but his coat was just gorgeous. None of the ones in zoos have ever been that lush. He was probably about 5 years old. You could see his chest moving up and down and a very round belly, indicating of a large meal he had enjoyed during the night. Periodically, he would raise his head and look at us and then promptly fall asleep.

As we drove off, my stomach growled so loud, that Mark way up in the front turned around and asked if we were hungry! Obviously, it was time for a snack in the bush. We enjoyed delicious tea cakes and hot chocolate with Amarula (a South African liquor similar to Amaretta). This photo is our stop.

Off again, it wasn't long until the trackers signalled another stop -- just a short distance from us was a huge white rhino. This photo of him looks black inspite of the name. He sat and posed for us for at least 10 minutes. What a treat to see these huge and fascinating creatures so close.

Another game drive this evening and tomorrow morning. Am sure it will hold new adventures. Then we head to Sabi Sabi.

Linda

Game Parks - Singita

Up at 'O Dark:30' this morning to catch a flight to Jo-Burg and from there on a private charter (1 hr) to Kruger Nat'l Park. The oldest and most famous park in South Africa, it borders Zimbabwe on the north and Mozambique on the east


Landing on the small Singita airstrip, we were met by our rangers, Mark and Shelly, and driven in 2 open top safari Rovers a short distance to the Singita Ebony Lodge, our home for the next 2 nights.. This luxurious but rustic lodge, rated one of the top in South Africa, far exceded anything I had expected. We each have a huge suite consisting of a living room and bedroom with connecting fireplace between them. An old-fashioned bathtub in front of floor-to-ceiling glass looking out on the Sand River plus an indoor as well as outdoor shower and expansive deck extending the full width of the suite complete the picture. Almost forgot that each of the 12 suites has a private plunge pool! Check out the website. www.singita.com Click on Ebony Lodge.

Unfortunately, I immediately fell victim to theft. As we were eating lunch in the beautiful open air dining room, I heard a scream from someone at our table. I never even saw the thief, but my hot roll was suddenly missing. An intrepid verterd monkey was the criminal!

Following tea at 3pm(1 hr after lunch!), we boarded one of 2 safari vans and took off on our first drive. The weather was sunny and low 70's - perfect! First sighting was another family of baboons, followed by a huge herd of female impalas guarded by one very competent male. As soon as a mischievious girl left the group, he promptly herded her back.

Since Singita is a private reserve as opposed to the public Kruger Nat'l Park, we do not have to use covered vehicles and can go off road as well as stay out after dark -- not allowed in the public parks. Our tracker, who has a chair perched on the front bumper, soon directed us through an open field and we began seeing groups of elephants(probably 30 in all). The youngsters were adorable! This photo was of one of the big bulls. Amazing how close they would come, but, if we stayed in the vehicle, which was required, they didn't see us as humans but rather as part of their environment.

The sun was now starting to set(it's almost winter) when we came upon a group of young lions finishing their daytime siesta. Apparently, most of the animals are active primarily at night and these were no exception. The light was getting poor and the photos weren't my best, but, when the tracker turned on a spotlight, the lions starting walking toward our vehicle. I was sitting on the uppermost back row (they are raised like stadium seating) and I promise that lion didn't turn away until he was about 6 feet from me! I kept thinking about all the warnings I had received not to let the lion eat me!

After that excitement, it was time for some wine and star gazing in one of the grassy areas. There's no way to describe what those stars looked like. Mark gave us a great lecture on the sky in the southern hemisphere and how to find the Southern Cross among others. Can't wait until tomorrow night to pick them out again.

We had driven about 10 minutes when we got a call that the other vehicle wouldn't start. As we were heading back to rescue them, our tracker spotted a jackel finishing off a meal that a lion had left behind. The other group wondered why it took us so long to get back to them!

After a brief tow, they were back in operation and we started back to the lodge, about 40 min. away. All of the sudden, our tracker signalled for the ranger to stop the Rover and everything became very still. Remember now, it's pitch black out here except for the stars as the quarter moon had already set. As our eyes adjusted to the dark, I saw a huge bull elephant completely blocking our dirt path and, apparently, not interested in moving any time soon. The ranger softly whispered that light makes them mad so all we could do was sit and hope he would decide to continue across the rode instead of charging us! After what seemed like an eternity, he started lumbering off, and we headed on down the rode before the other one behind him could blcok our path.

Back at the lodge and breathing a sigh of relief, we enjoyed a delightful wine tasting and learned even more about the history of South African wines and their recent growth in popularity. Dinner was fun as one of our group was celebrating a birthday, and the staff presented him with a beautiful chocolate cake. As he cut into it, we all began to laugh -- it was all elephant dung in the middle! Fortunately, a more appetizing cake followed.

Early morning tomorrow as we start out game drive at 6am!
From the African bush...
Linda

Cape of Good Hope

GORGEOUS morning – pretty enough for an early walk on the wharf before leaving for our drive south down the Cape Peninsula to the Cape of Good Hope.

The Cape drive is classified as the most beautiful drive in South Africa, and rightly deserved. I've driven many ocean roads and few come close to this one. During our drive down the coast, around the cape and back up False Bay to Capetown, we drove along scenic cliffside roads, quaint fishing villages and around beautiful bays nestled between mountain valleys. It didn't hurt the scenery one bit that it was such a beautiful day!

Although not totally surprised by the breathtaking vistas, I had not expected to alreadybegin seeing wild animals. First sighting was African Elands (related to our antelope), next came big black ostrich with long white necks and then our biggest surprise – a family of baboons! They were doing a bit of nibbling on native bushes, scratching when the urge struck them and even letting out big yawns. Grandpa was especially fond of this activity. Maybe the young 'uns had kept him up last night!

Soon we reached the much-anticipated Cape of Good Hope where this photo was taken. Such a beautiful setting today with the sun out and not a cloud in sight made it was hard to visualize the danger these rocks held for many ships whose misfortune led them there in one of the frequent storms. A lighthouse marking the Cape was a good hike up from the parking lot, but, considering all the calories I have been consuming, the climb felt great. The view from the top was truly breathtaking as this was the most southwesterly point in Africa and a site often referred to in history!

Not to get behind on caloric intake, we stopped at a lovely little seaside village, Simon's Town, for a great lunch. I chose Kingclip, a local seafood that was one of the best fish I have ever eaten. It's truly a small world—as I walked into the restaurant, I ran into a girl who had been on a South Australia Virtuoso fam last June. Like me, she felt Africa would be a natural destination for clients who have been to Australia and vice versa.

Rounding out a perfect day was a walk down to the beach in this town to see African penguins, known as the Jackass penguins beause of the 'melodic' sound they make. They loved having their picture taken while enjoying the beautiful sunshine, and we were happy to oblige

Wish I had time or space to tell you more about Capetown and the Cape, but I have to be at another dinner shortly. Very early tomorrow morning we fly north to the African Bush. I hope to be able to describe our wonderful experiences at Singita and Sabi Sabi but not sure about internet access. We'll see what tomorrow holds.

From this beautiful country,

Linda

Culture Touring - Rosie's Kitchen and Goldie's Flowers

Last night's dinner in the home of Suzette and Peter James will be remembered as a highlight of our stay in South Africa. Longtime friends of the owners of Micato Safaris (the hosts of our trip), they invited not only our group of 13 but also 7 of their own friends. Suzette prepared a delicious meal that included Afrikaner, Malaysan and other specialties of South Africa, and Peter served his favorite wines. Dinner conversation was fascinating as we were encouraged to ask any questions we might have, and I enjoyed a lively discussion with Ralph and Pearl on the country's history and current political and social situation.

We left the beautiful Twelve Apostles Hotel and entered a totally different world this morning. The contrasts today portrayed clearly the widening gap between South Africa's affluent population and it's extreme poverty. Driving south out of the city we again drove past miles and miles of shanties.

Last night I learned more about these shanties that have been built along side government-constructed homes, and this morning proved that information. Frequently, when a family moves into one of these homes, extended family from poorer rural areas join them. Almost overnight the homes are surrounded by shacks. Periodically the government comes in and bulldozes the shacks and tries to build new homes before shacks again cover the land.

A major force behind the poverty is the 27% unemployment rate which can rise to as high as 50% in some areas. Education is not free and many of the teachers were given a sabotical when the ANC came to power. The new government felt these teachers didn't have adequate traing, but nothing has been done to replace them; therefore, there is a critical shortage of teachers.

Turning off the highway we wound through a huge shanty town known as Kyayelitsha to a very special structure -- Rosie's Kitchen. Her story is too long, unfortunately, for this blog, but, essentially, this very poor homeless woman with 2 young children and help from friends and the Catholic church began providing meals for residents of this area. There are numerous other Rosie's Kitchens now, but we visited the one shown in the picture. In a space about 5'x5', 150 children come by at 6am for sandwiches to take with them to school. Then she begins fixing huge pots of soup for the residents each day. Women who are not working come in to help preparing the soups. Money is tight even with church support, and they were very grateful for all the boxes of vegetables provided by Micato Safaris and delivered by us today.

Not far away was Goldie's Flower Shop. Sixteen years ago, Goldie, a poor father living with his wife and 5 daughters in a shack had a vision about a rubbish dump filled with colorful flowers. He pursued this dream and now makes beautiful, colorful flowers out of old cans. He was truly an artist and is even selling these flowers in a shop in Capetown. I am bringing home one of his Birds of Paradise.

Lunch was at the grand 'Pink Lady' of Capetown, the famous Mount Nelson Hotel, followed by other site inspections. Our new home tonight is the Cape Grace Hotel right on the V&A Waterfront. Spectacular views of the harbour and Table Mountain from our room.

Tomorrow we're off for a full day of the Cape Peninsula and the Cape of Good Hope. Can't believe I'll actually be seeing this land made famous by early sailers.

Linda

Cape Winelands - Stellenbosch and Franschhoek

This photo of Lion's Head Mountain was taken yesterday afternoon from our hotel. Today was cloudy with intermittent fog over the hillside and not conducive to good photography. But the clouds didn't dampen our spirits(mood not alcohol!) as we had a delightful day in the Cape Winelands.

Leaving the hotel we drove along some of the same beaches we saw yesterday but were soon leaving behind the multi-million rand (SA currency)seaside homes and passing miles of some of the poorest shanties I've ever seen. New subsidized housing is slowly replacing these stark symbols of poverty. South Africa has a goal of eliminating all these shanties and is making progress but there is a long road ahead. Many of the poor from small villages still migrate to Capetown in hopes of a better life. Tomorrow we will visit some of these areas and learn more about what is being done.

But, for today, our first stop is the second oldest township in South Africa, Stellenbach. Founded in 1652, Stellenbach's initial purpose was to provide more farmland for crops to replenish supplies on the Dutch East Indies ships sailing from Holland around the Cape of Good Hope to the Far East. It's a lovely university town in the middle of the wine country and looked like an Ivy League school in the fall as the leaves are now falling in the Southern Hemisphere.
Our first stop was the Delaire Graf Estate, a fairly new winery with a fabulous art collection. The décor of the estate was lovely, and we tasted several whites and reds from their cellar.

Next on the agenda was Franschhoek, a charming little village with a distinctive French character. Founded by French Huguenots fleeing religious persecution in France, the area soon became known for its excellent wines. Since one of the major purposes of a fam trip is to became acquainted with various options for future travellers, we did a site inspection at a lovely boutique property known as Le Quartier Francais. Having won numerous awards, the property is well-known in South Africa for it's gourmet food and outstanding wines. Needless to say, we had a delightful lunch. This village is a wonderful getaway with numerous small shops in town and activities in the nearby area.

From here we were off to a totally different property, La Residence, located on a 30-acre estate in the Franschhoek Valley. Each suite here is decorated differently with Persian carpets and numerous art objects It had to be one of the most elegant resorts I've ever seen. No one was really hungry as it had only an hour since lunch but couldn't offend our courteous hosts so we were treated to afternoon tea and fresh scones.

The last stop on our way back to the city was a brief stop at the prison from which Nelson Mandela walked to freedom in 1990.

Tonight is a special dinner hosted by a prominent Capetown couple in their home and will be an interesting change from our hotel venues. And tomorrow brings a totally different experience. Entitled “Cultural Tour of the City,” it will immerse us into life in a local township.

From a VERY bumpy bus ride back to Capetown, I'll say goodby!.
Linda

Capetown - A Day to Explore

Four movies, three meals and six hours of sleep and I had made it from Atlanta to Johannesburg. One more 'short' 2-hour flight, and I was finally in Capetown! We arrived in a heavy rainstorm, but our driver skilfully maneuvered the winding ocean road to The Twelve Apostles,our beautiful hotel, located above Camp Bay Beach.

Today was our 'free day' in Capetown before the rest of our Fam group arrived so we hopped in a hotel van and headed into the city. The weather was overcast early but shortly after this photo was taken, it cleared and the afternoon was clear and beautiful. My roommate from Florida, Lynann Mullis, and I had just finished a tasty lunch on the V&A (Victoria and Alfred) Waterfront with Capetown's Table Mountain in the background.

Instead of the typical bus tour of the city, we opted for a Hop On/Hop Off openair bus like the ones in London. Sitting on top was a bit cool before the sun came out but views were spectacular. We drove all over the downtown area, up to the top of Table Mountain (Capetown's most famous site) and along spectacular beaches.

I have read about South Africa's struggles relating to arpetheid for years but am gaining a new understanding regarding the great difficulties this nation has faced. The 'segregation' policy inforcing racial discrimination officially went into effect in 1948. This law dictated where people 'of color' lived, were educated, worked, and were even buried. President de Klerk took the first steps to legimatize the ANC(African Nat'l Congress) in 1991. Nelson Mandela, after almost 30 years of imprisonment on Robben Island, was released and 3 short years later was elected president of South Africa. Although officially ended, discrimination has not been totally abolished as is the case in many other nations around the world, but the first steps have been taken.

Dinner tonight was incredible. One dish was local mussels in a creamy garlic, saffron and chardonnay sauce followed by the hotel's specialty, roast duck. That I can still type after this feast is a minor miracle.

Unfortunately, tomorrow may be an even greater challenge as the day will be spent touring the Cape Winelands. Hopefully, there will be another posting tomorrow -- depends on the condition of the author.

From beautiful Capetown, South Africa ...

Linda

From Amsterdam to Africa

I just returned from our wonderful Tulip Time River Cruise in The Netherlands and Belgium and am heading back across the "Big Pond!" It's beginning to seem like deja vu, but the same old volcano is spewing ash again resulting in European airports being closed. We just made it in and out of Europe between a narrow window of closures. Fortunately, however, on this trip I'm flying nonstop from Atlanta to Johannesburg -- hopefully, they'll have enough fuel to make land! Don't think I've ever taken a flight this long (about 16 hours).

Ideally, I would never schedule 2 big international trips this close together, but an invitation to join a Micato Safari fam (familiarization tour for travel agents) was just too enticing to refuse! South Africa has been #1 on my Bucket List for several years. Not only am I fascinated by the game reserves and opportunity to see wildlife in their natural habitats but also to witness first hand places where the fascinating history of this country took place. Seeing the beautiful Capetown region will be an extra bonus. The photo is one of Micato's and shows the Capetown waterfront.

I leave Austin this afternoon, change planes in Atlanta and Johannesburg and arrive in Capetown, South Africa about 9pm Tuesday evening. We will be spending 5 nights touring this region and then fly to 2 private game reserves in the northern part of the country. I have been told that it is vital to have a good camera when on safari so I bought a new one during the few days I was in Austin and have been frantically trying to learn how to use it. The flight over the Atlantic should give me plenty of time to study the manuel. Hopefully, I'll have some good photos to send out.

Check out the upcoming blogs as I switch from tulips and windmills to lions and rhinos!

Linda

Keukenhof Gardens - Tulips, Tulips, Tulips!

Overnight our 'hotel' sailed to Utrecht where we docked just long enough to board buses for the beautiful Keukenhof Gardens, about an hour away in the South Holland region. Weather forecast was still sunny and 70 degrees, although tomorrow when we leave for home, rain and colder weather are predicted. According to our guide, the past winter was very cold with lots of skating on the canals. This resulted in late blooming of the tulips making this week the peak of the season. As Julie Andrews sang, “I must have done something good!”

The Gardens are only open 8 short weeks of the year, this year from March 18th thru May 16th. The park covers a total of 70 acres, both indoor and outdoor, where a total of 7 million planted bulbs are in bloom. Indoor pavilions feature orchids. We had a special treat today as we drove past acres and acres of brilliant colors of tulips and hyacinths on the way to the gardens. These are the fields where the tulips as well their bulbs are grown for export. I was here about 2 weeks later last spring and all the tulips had been cut. I've never seen such an incredible display of colors!

About 1pm we returned to the boat which had sailed on to Amsterdam and was docked in the same spot where we began our cruise a very short week ago. The afternoon was free to do last minute shopping or sightseeing. Several of us hopped on a StopnGo van for the famous Rijksmuseum containing the Netherlands best collection of the old Masters.
The city was definitely in a party mood as celebrations had already begun for the Queen's Birthday which is celebrated tomorrow, April 30. It is actually a celebration of former Queen Beatrix' birthday and, although she died several years ago, the Dutch love this excuse to party. Since she was a member of the House of Orange, everything and everyone is draped in orange – even the beer is dyed orange! Sort of a cross between Mardi Gras in New Orleans and St. Patrick's Day in Ireland.

Well, all good things must come to a close, and early tomorrow we board a flight to the US. But we definitely plan to return to The Low Countries before too many tulip seasons have passed!
Linda
FYI - On May 10th I leave for Capetown, South Africa, and hope to be sending you updates on another part of our wonderful world!

Windmills and Willemstad

Another new adventure this morning! I felt like a native Dutchman as I cycled around Willemstad this morning. There couldn't have been a better day to take a bicycle trip. Not one hill in sight, and the weather actually was more perfect today than yesterday!

Docking right by the harbour in Willemstad, my first view of this tiny town was a beautiful white windmill near the yacht harbour. It didn't take long to get used to riding on cobblestone streets, and shortly I was tooling around the village like a pro (Lance would have been proud of his fellow Austinite!) I wish I could post all my photos as the village contained quaint cottages, canals with lily pads, blooming fruit trees and tulips. I even got a picture of a swan nesting in the reeds with dad keeping a close watch. Disneyworld eat your heart out -- you don't even come close to the magical charm of Willemstad! The cruise had a special treat for us -- an organ recital in old church.

Had another quick lunch while sailing to Dordrecht (back in the Netherlands). This afternoon we drove a short distance to Kinderdijk. Another UNESCO listed World Heritage Site, this area has more windmills than anywhere else in the world. About 1740 the Dutch built 17 mills to drain excess water from the polders (low-lying regions) so the land could be claimed for agriculture and prevent flooding. Today power-driven pumping engines do this work much more efficiently but don't hold a candle to the charm of the old windmills. We took many photos and climbed one of the mills. Fascinating to see the living quarters of the family who maintained the mill. Definitely small but very efficient.

Tonight is the Captain's Dinner so need to spiffy up a bit. Tomorrow is labeled as the high-point of the week -- the Keukenhoff Gardens(famous for its tulips), but everyday has been a special experience.

Linda

Belgium's Medieval Cities - Gent and Brugges

Belgium has many treasures -- chocolate, art, lace, mussels, etc., etc., etc., but one of it's greatest treasures is it's beautifully preserved medieval cities. Gent and Brugges are two of the most famous and were our focus today.

Gent, Belgiums's 3rd largest city, contains beautiful examples of the Gothic and Renaissance splendours of the Flemish life in the Middle Ages. We began our walking tour in the historical section of the city. Much of Gent's architectural glory can be seen along the old harbour where houses remain from sthe 15th and 16th century. Along the quay of the Leie River is a house with the oldest existing facade in Belgium, dating back to 1531. We passed over numerous bridges and looked down at reflection of the old homes in the river, made even more brilliantly clear by the bright sunlight. The Butcher's Guild contained Ganda hams(one of the specialities in Flenders) suspended from ancient roofs. Our walk ended at the Sint-Baafskathedraal, one of the finest Gothic churches of the Low Countries. By then we were ready to relax in an outdoor cafe and sip a mid-morning latte. What a life!!

Having experienced Brugges 10 years ago on one of the most miserable weather days ever – 37 degrees, pouring down rain and gale-force winds, I had been crossing my fingers that our beautiful weather would hold for our afternoon visit to Brugges. Fortunately, our luck held as it was 70 degrees and sunny. The cherry trees are in full bloom as are the tulips and the trees are bright green with new foliage.

An hour's drive west of Gent is the town of Brugges which seems to have come straight out of the Middle Ages. The city was a major exchange center in Europe in the 12th century, but by the 15th century the city began to decline due to the silting of the Zwin estuary and the decline of the cloth-making industry. The story of Brugges' reimergence reminded me of the history of Machu Picchu in Peru which was ignored for centuries and rediscovered in the early 1900's. In the 1960's UNESCO made Brugges a World Heritage site and this beautiful medieval city has became a must-see for anyone travelling to Belgium.

We walked through many old streets with ancient buildings and then boarded a boat for a scenic cruise through the canals. This is one of the best ways to actually see the homes. Lace and chocolate purchases followed the cruise with a stop at an outdoor cafe to sample famous Belgium beers. I'm not a beer drinker, but, on the recommendation of our guide, I tried a Cherry Beer and it was delicious. Actually, it tasted more like a Kir Royale than beer which is probably why I liked it.

We're on our way back to the boat and will be sailing to a new destination tonight.

Linda

A Bridge Too Far and Belgian LaceI

Today we left the Holland of the 17th century and learned about the Netherlands during their intense struggles of World War II. Docking in Nijmegan, a 17th century Dutch city that I had toured last year, I elected to not revisit this charming university town, but instead drive to the Airborne Museum. Located in an old hotel, this museum depicts in great detail the events in the battle for the bridge at Nijmegan. Unfortunately, many Allied lives were lost in the attempt to take the bridge and thus destroy the German supply route. The museum was unlike any I had visited as you toured the various rooms and felt through video and sound that you were actually caught in the middle of this fierce battle. I had not realized that Dutch resistance fighters shad helped many British paratroopers escape across the river while Dutch civilians sheltered another 500 Allied paratroopers around Arnhem. The 1977 movie, entitled A Bridge Too Far, tells the story of this tragic battle.

From here we drove to the nearby Airborne Cemetery were fallen paratroopers lie. I have visited the American Cemetery in Normandy as well as another cemetery in the Netherlands where 7000 American military are buried, but I still felt humbled as I walked through this beautiful, peaceful plot of ground where over 2000 Allied troops who fought in this battle4 are buried.

Having cruised all night (I love my hotel moving while I sleep!), we are docked Monday morning in Antwerp in the northern part of Belbium. In the Flanders region the language is Flemish and is slightly similar to Dutch and German. In the Grote Markt(city square) is the Brabo fountain. The UNESCO world heritage Cathedral of Our Lady contains works by Peter Paul Rubens who lived in Antwerp in the 16th century. Antwerp is one of the two most important diamond cutting centers of Europe-- unfortunately, I didn't manage to acquire any of these souvenirs.

Another fast but delicious lunch was followed by a trip to Brussels (about 1 hour south of Antwerp). I've been to the capital of Belgium several time but am still awed when I enter the Grand Place, one of the most beautiful city squares in all of Europe. Brussels is known not only for delicious chocolate but also delicate lace work. My plans to wait until Brugge to buy lace vanished when I saw an adorable baby dress. My second granddaughter who is won't arrive until September already has an addition to her wardrobe.

Holland's Charming Villages

I left you yesterday(Saturday) as we finished cruising Amsterdam's canals and boarded our river boat for Volendam. We sailed through a small lock after lunch into the "Marker Lake" (Markermeer), part of a larger lake called the Ijsselmeer and docked at Volendam. This sea used to be known as the famous Zuiderzee before it was closed off from the North Sea by dykes in 1933. Volendam is no longer a prosperous fishing village as the lake filled with freshwater, and fish from these waters are not as valuable as the salt water varieties. Much of the old structures still remained, and we enjoyed our stroll through the town.

Some of our group rode bicycles from there to Edam. A very flat landscape makes this region great for cycling. The rest of us drove the short distance to this village, famous for its cheeses. Much smaller and quieter than Volendam, this town offered peaceful lanes through which to stroll and the cheese tasting was a welcome and delicious treat.

Back on the ship about 5pm we set sail for Arnhem. It's wonderful to sit in the dining room sipping excellent wines (included with the cruise) and enjoy a delicious 5+ course dinner as you watch the countryside pass by. I MUST find time to use the treadmill!

Sunday morning again dawned bright and sunny -- how long can this wonderful weather hold???Some of our group opted to observe " a day of rest" while 4 of us drove to the Netherlands Open Air Museum. This name is totally deceptive as it's more of a 'National Folk Museum'. It was founded by a group concerned that increasing industrialization was destroying any semblance of the rich heritage and traditions of the Netherlands. They leased a beautiful estate and began transferring historical buildings to the grounds. We spent a delightful morning touring old homes and public buildings The commercial laundry operating in the 17th century was amazing! I couldn't resist photos of the various windmills -- each with a different function. The one in this photo was used to grind corn.

This posting ends as we set sail for Nijmegan and immersion in WWII in the Netherlands.

Tune in tomorrow for our next adventures.

Linda

This afternoon we are sailing to Nijmegen, site of much WWII history. Since I was toured the city last year, I am opting to go to Airborne Museum

Amsterdam -- A City of Canals

What a rollercoaster ride this past week has been. Having planned this Springtime River Cruise of the Netherlands and Belgium almost a year ago, I never expected to encounter cancelled flights due to a volcano. Fortunately, Mother Nature cooperated, and the travel ban was lifted the day before our flight. We arrived yesterday on a beautiful morning in Amsterdam and boarded a van bound for our home for the next 7 days - the river boat, Amalegro.



Our flight was uneventful; however, until we landed. Two of our ladies, who needed special assistance to Baggage Claim, were separated from the rest of the group when their cart didn't show up when we arrived at Baggage Claim. After more than an hour of frantic searching by not only me but also support from the cruise staff, they finally arrived! It seems they had been driven all over the airport as other passengers in the cart were delivered to different gates.

We did get to the ship (several hours later), had a quick lunch and headed out to explore this beautiful city and its famous canals. Taking advantage or the StopnGo vans, we soon arrived at the site of the Ann Frank Home located on the Prisengracht CCanal. Looking out the upper story windown with its trees just budding out in spring, it was especially poignant to think of this young girl who spent the last years of her life here.

From there we hopped on the van again and headed to the Rembrandt House where the famous artist lived and worked. Not only could we see the actual rooms in his home but also had a fascinating demonstration of how he did his unique etchings. Besides several of his famouns works, the house also contained works of his contempories that he collected. Unfortunately, it was now time to get back to the ship were our group of ten gathered for the Captain's Welcome Party and a delicious dinner. This is the same ship we sailed on in December 2008 for the Christmas Markets Cruise and several of the dining staff remembered us. Not sure if that was a positive or negative reflection on our group!

Saturday morning dawned just as beautiful, and after a very hearty breakfast, we boarded canal boats to see Amsterdam from the perspective of the locals -- from their houseboats. Actually most of the residents travel by bicycle (more bicycles than people in this city!) and by boat. Cruising past unique houseboats as well as funky ones that Austinites would love, old coffee houses, centuries-old bridges and elegant cathedrals, we enjoyed every moment and took far too many photos. If I had to choose, however, my favorite views were of the beautiful old house so narrow and uniquely designed. No two are alike.


This afternoon we are sailing through northern Holland to Volendam and then on to Edam.


I'll fill you in on those adventures tomorrow.

From somewhere north of Amsterdam...

Linda

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